Another oil leak thread....
#11
The PCV system works the opposite way. You need to make sure everything is sealed tight and ONLY vents through the hose pointed out in the above pic. Oil cap O-ring, dipstick O-ring and that hose needs to be clamped etc.. No valve, open all the time.
The engine is aluminum alloy not cast iron, heat affects the sealing surfaces. I'm betting the engine overheated severely at some time.
The engine is aluminum alloy not cast iron, heat affects the sealing surfaces. I'm betting the engine overheated severely at some time.
#13
Thanks everyone for the responses. I did think about a stop-leak type product but the seal is a bead of some silicone-like material and not a gasket but it is certainly worth a try. I will get a second opinion and let you guys know how it goes.
#15
what a bummer. I guess oil can leak out where the block halfs come together. I just drove 500 miles on my cleaned up 2006 with a 2.4 thats running strong and smooth. But its not so clean any more. the lower half of engine is covered in about a quart of oil. Upper half is still clean. I knew oil was leaking but figured it was all from the oil cooler. It was tricky to get to but I replaced the 2 rotten seals. But that split is still got oil all over on the intake manafold side and pooled oil under the cooler on top of the bell housing. I have an oil gage on the engine and its 100 psi when cold and drops to 75 psi with hot oil. Never seen oil pressure that high. At hot idle its 20psi. No oil and water mixing yet, so I guess thats a bit of good news. Its really stupid that its only silicone and not a gasket between the engine halfs. I may also try that oil leak additive to slow down the leak. I think I would rather just keep feeding it oil than to tear the engine apart. Just for grins Ill do a dye test when I get back home but its sooo messy at the split after its been engine cleaned that it must be the split thats spewing so much oil.
Last edited by stts; 02-21-2020 at 04:08 PM.
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