Battery jumping
#12
Around here, giving out boosts / jumps is just something we have to do, and I have always used the front terminal, and the hood latch as a ground. Not so bad when it's HHR starting someone else, but if you're boosting your HHR, remember that you ALWAYS connect the NEGATIVE on the car GIVING power LAST and then disconnect that one FIRST. If you're using the battery terminals, this will mean that the battery being charged / boosted (and potentially giving off explosive gas) is not the point at which arcing can occur, instead it's on the vehicle that's already running. Also, make sure to run the heater motors on both vehicles.. it can help to absorb voltage spikes when boosting. I KNOW, it sounds like potential bullcrap, but I was taught this at my highly reputable school, as part of my Parts Tech apprenticeship, and they're adamant that it can help buffer spikes. (which is, of course, important to protect the computers). They say that the heater motor is one of the highest draws you can get, which is why it helps.
We also always make a practice of running freshly boosted cars that have batteries inside with the windows open and (if possible) the hatch open /cover off for a few, so that any discharged gas can be vented safely. It won't warm up for the first few minutes anyhow. Of course, you should visually inspect any battery you're boosting anyhow.. if it's bulging on the sides or you can see that it's frozen.. DON'T DO IT MAN. Danger Will Robinson, Danger!
We also always make a practice of running freshly boosted cars that have batteries inside with the windows open and (if possible) the hatch open /cover off for a few, so that any discharged gas can be vented safely. It won't warm up for the first few minutes anyhow. Of course, you should visually inspect any battery you're boosting anyhow.. if it's bulging on the sides or you can see that it's frozen.. DON'T DO IT MAN. Danger Will Robinson, Danger!
#14
Both my dad and I have HHR's. The other day he called me with a dead battery. Are we not able to jump another vehicle from the jumping point under the hood. When I connected the cables between the two points his interior lights worked better but would not start. Ended up had to take the trays out of the back and directly hooked cables battery to battery and his car started right up.
He had his battery tested the nest day and it tested fine, he had just left key in accessory to long. Just asking to see if there was something I could have done to make it work without removing all the crap out of the back of my car. LOL
He had his battery tested the nest day and it tested fine, he had just left key in accessory to long. Just asking to see if there was something I could have done to make it work without removing all the crap out of the back of my car. LOL
Bear in mind that with a dead HHR battery you have to first use the jump points under hood to lift the hatch from outside, or apply power through cigarette lighter, etc. Else there is a lever behind trim inside on hatch.
Last edited by blacky; 08-20-2013 at 03:09 PM.
#15
I have a battery power unit from harbor freight $35.00 and had to use one morning as the light on the mirror and stayed on all night in the morning the battery was at 8.14 volts and used the power unit and connected under the hood to the battery terminal and ground on the strut started the engine and disconnected the power unit the alternater was charging at over 14 volts. I always keep in my HHr have used it many times when somebody has left their lights on.
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