donbrew

Spell check does not like the correct spelling. They get away with that when talking about the BREAKS wearing out. I guess you haven't been around much if you don't see meaningful info here. Not much moaning and complaining about GM that I've seen.

Seems like you got very good info very fast (less than 3 hours). Would have been even faster if you had started with a search (less than 10 seconds).

Lucky

I'm sure there is a way to jump the resistor but I don't know which one to jump off hand. You can plug the resistor back in and unplug the fan motor and try to isolate them that way. With all the rain we have had the blower motor may have taken on some water. If it is the blower motor I myself would replace both. Sorry about my spelling I'm bad about not reading what I'm typing.

Stevethefolkie

Quite sorry if my correction of spelling errors caused anyone personal suffering and pain; through my career I've found that language is a powerful tool if used correctly.
Back to the resistor pack - replaced it this morning and, on startup, blew the #4 fuse. I didn't turn on the fan, nor did I turn on the air conditioner, I just started the car.
My question is as follows; does the fan engage when the ignition is turned on? I've owned vehicles in the past where this was the case, although I'd not noticed the fan turning on (with the selector turned all the way to the left) when I energized the ignition before. If so then I'd presume that my AC/Heater blower fan is knackered, but, if that's the case, why does it run at full speed when provided with a 12V feed (fused at 20A rather than the 30A rating of #4)?
I'm accustomed to being frustrated with vehicles, my rides over the past 5 years have included an HHR, a SAAB 900 SPG and a SAAB 93 'vert - of the three the HHR has proved itself to be the most frustrating although for some idiotic, irrational reason I want to keep it!

Thanks -

Steve

Lucky

There are a lot of the newer cars that the blower motor is wired with 12 pos. when the ign. Is on and the speed is controlled with the ground side. I don't remember if our hhr is wired that way off hand. I will do some checking and get back to you. Do I understand your post that you applied power to your blower motor and it worked?

Stevethefolkie

Yes - I wired it directly to a fused 12V source (motorcycle battery with a couple of leads and a fuse holder) - fan worked and the fuse didn't blow - this is quite the conundrum ...

thanks

Steve

Stevethefolkie

Your comment above got me to thinking - I wonder if the issue is a bad ground on the circuit rather than excessive resistance on the motor. If you're correct, that the 12V + is a constant and that the speed (resistance) regulation is through the ground that seems plausible.

Tomorrow I'll rig up a 12V fan to accept the connector from the resistor pack and see what happens when I try to run it - if the fuse blows I'll assume a bad ground - if not I'll replace the fan motor.

Thank you for getting my brain working!

Steve

donbrew

Don't ignore the BUTYL PATCH part of the solution. If you don't fix it it will fix you.

Stevethefolkie

My HHR must be an odd ball - no water leaks (we've had torrential rains, it lives outside and I've checked). I've come to the following conclusions:

Radio: Only works sometimes because it's shot - will replace this weekend (it's the US8 model - AM/FM/CD/Aux input, no nav or Bluetooth)

Blower fan: Bypassing the original switch with a potentiometer (DC Rheostat integrated to a switch) a fuse and a couple of wires solves the issue - I'm thinking that the problem is in the original switch however, as I had already installed the other components to test I'm just going to leave it as it is. The nice thing is that this configuration gives me infinite speed control instead of fixed positions. It's an IFM Effector unit that will work for either 12 or 24 VDC - I'll machine a billet knob tomorrow at work - it'll be the most attractive and solid electronic system in the car. You could replicate this with a potentiometer from a radio (volume control from an old-school am or am/fm radio) but I'm not sure if it could handle the current.

I appreciate the assistance, suggestions and help provided as I worked towards a diagnosis and solution - if nothing else I gain an additional DIN cubby by swapping out the OEM radio for one I already own.

Cheers

Steve

donbrew

Good luck, but please read up on replacing radios in HHRs first or you''ll be back complaining about the absence of warning chimes and other things. The info is all here, just be armed with the knowledge before you get in there. Modern vehicles are not as easy to chang \e things on as '65 chevys were.

Stevethefolkie

1965's were nice - my personal favorite was a 1963 SS Impala 409 dual quad with a 4 speed - seafoam green with a white top - damn I wish I still had that car.

As for the radio - I'm going to pull it this weekend and check the connections - it seems that it works when it's < 80F and >90F - I suspect a bad connection ..

Cheers

Steve