Brake lights
#11
well i found out that my third brake was on when the car was off and im like wtf? So know i tested my brake lights by press on the pedal while the car was started no go ....my tail lights work ,turn signal work ,side makers work,but no brake lights... also found out my cruise control not working ,so someone said it most likely be the brake switch going out ... this making me sick because my wife needs the car for work .. plus with the third brake light staying on it was draining my battery dead, so i pulled all the bulbs out of third brake light sockets the one that's in middle back hatch at the top ....any help?
#12
Well don brew was dead on it was the brake light switch ,i read the internet to my eyes were red ...anyways the part was like 20.00 dollars and i had my local mechanic installed it..So if anybody third brake light stays lit when the car is off it will drain your battery dead so what i did was pull the third brake bulbs till i could get it fixed because no brake lights is no fun ..so i hope this helps out anyone with this problem ,thank god for this website to help save some money...thanks to all members who helped...
#13
Well glad you got yours fixed, but it may not be the answer for others with the same problem. As I stated before, my 2010 has to have the key "on" for the brakelights to work. Key off, there is no voltage at the pedal sensor. So no way for a bad sensor to leave the brakelights on(at least on my car)
It may be different sensor setup depending on year model. Just trying to point out there must be difference between the wiring systems used during the different year models.
Again, hurst2001, glad you got yours fixed.
It may be different sensor setup depending on year model. Just trying to point out there must be difference between the wiring systems used during the different year models.
Again, hurst2001, glad you got yours fixed.
#14
Well glad you got yours fixed, but it may not be the answer for others with the same problem. As I stated before, my 2010 has to have the key "on" for the brakelights to work. Key off, there is no voltage at the pedal sensor. So no way for a bad sensor to leave the brakelights on(at least on my car)
It may be different sensor setup depending on year model. Just trying to point out there must be difference between the wiring systems used during the different year models.
Again, hurst2001, glad you got yours fixed.
It may be different sensor setup depending on year model. Just trying to point out there must be difference between the wiring systems used during the different year models.
Again, hurst2001, glad you got yours fixed.
#15
Well glad you got yours fixed, but it may not be the answer for others with the same problem. As I stated before, my 2010 has to have the key "on" for the brakelights to work. Key off, there is no voltage at the pedal sensor. So no way for a bad sensor to leave the brakelights on(at least on my car)
It may be different sensor setup depending on year model. Just trying to point out there must be difference between the wiring systems used during the different year models.
Again, hurst2001, glad you got yours fixed.
It may be different sensor setup depending on year model. Just trying to point out there must be difference between the wiring systems used during the different year models.
Again, hurst2001, glad you got yours fixed.
#16
glad i found this thread. Have the same issue(s) with my 2006. <somewhat> of a funny story... Got off work today, noticed the alarm didn't sound when i tried to unlock, unlocked w/ key. Keys got stuck in the ignition. Had to lookup how to get the keys out of the ignition with a dead battery. Keys out, manually unlocking back doors and dropping the seats down to get to the battery. Tow truck comes out, i have to explain why i cant open my rear hatch and have to fish the jumper cables around the rear passenger door to get to the battery since it's completly locked down from the back. Get some juice, then yay!
#17
glad i found this thread. Have the same issue(s) with my 2006. <somewhat> of a funny story... Got off work today, noticed the alarm didn't sound when i tried to unlock, unlocked w/ key. Keys got stuck in the ignition. Had to lookup how to get the keys out of the ignition with a dead battery. Keys out, manually unlocking back doors and dropping the seats down to get to the battery. Tow truck comes out, i have to explain why i cant open my rear hatch and have to fish the jumper cables around the rear passenger door to get to the battery since it's completly locked down from the back. Get some juice, then yay!
No need to do all that silly climbing over the seats and digging down to where the battery is located.
#18
Hmmm. Are you aware of the jumpstart location under the hood? It's in your owners manual. Hook up the jumper cables(Caution here! Must be done correctly.) then you will have power to open the rear hatch.
No need to do all that silly climbing over the seats and digging down to where the battery is located.
No need to do all that silly climbing over the seats and digging down to where the battery is located.
#19
glad i found this thread. Have the same issue(s) with my 2006. <somewhat> of a funny story... Got off work today, noticed the alarm didn't sound when i tried to unlock, unlocked w/ key. Keys got stuck in the ignition. Had to lookup how to get the keys out of the ignition with a dead battery. Keys out, manually unlocking back doors and dropping the seats down to get to the battery. Tow truck comes out, i have to explain why i cant open my rear hatch and have to fish the jumper cables around the rear passenger door to get to the battery since it's completly locked down from the back. Get some juice, then yay!
Sorry that your vehicle is giving you some issues. I want to check your vehicle history to see if there are any bulletins related to your key being stuck in the ignition. If you could private message me your vehicle identification number I can look up that information.
Thank you,
Jessica L.
Chevrolet Customer Care
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