Many, many people have expressed their concern about the brake pedal shuttering upon application.......with the explanation that the rotors are warped and the need to have the dealer repair them under warranty (or in some instances, out side of warranty)..

But, nobody has indicated what the PROBLEM is that caused the shutter (other than crappy brakes).

I've been told, and tend to agree after watching dealer and tire shop services, that 30-50% of the problem could be......what I illustrate below. This is a procedure, when rotating wheels, that I have performed for 15 years. MIGHT be why I have NEVER had a rotor problem.

Persuant to TSB #06-03-10-010-Wheel Changing Procedure and Procautions:



Now here is my front hubs, with the aluminum wheel removed, after 6000 miles. Notice the corrosion.



And, a little closer view....


Notice how the rust pattern mimics the exact patten of the wheel when it is torqued to the hub. I think this shows why it is always wise to torque the wheels to factory specs (not to what someone suggests). Now here is the same hub after clean up....


This is the tool that I use....



I only encounter this rust problem on the front....my rear drums are painted with a rust prevention type paint...


And, before members "hammer" me, I'll say this might not be the problem with ALL the shutter issues. But, I bet it would prevent many of them.

Now, you need to ask yourself AND THE DEALER, why they are not performing this procedure when it is expressly indicated in part of the 13 page TSB #00-05-22-002h- Brakes, Warranty Guidelines and Service Procedures (as follows...read both 1 and 2)....




It's up to you, if you do this. But I suggest to try it.

Note.... after spending many hours in the service area of dealers, I personally can tell you the tech.'s seldom do this. I can also tell you after spending many hours in NAME BRAND tire shops (lifetime rotations and balancing on 4 current vehicles), they do not perform this measure at all (time is money).

Oh, one last thing....WHEN my rotors are removed, they will be painted and sealed like the rear drums.

Good Luck

 

Great tip Might go this route since mine are doing it now and over the warranty when i get time

 

My brakes had a bit of a shudder in them and the dealer turned the rotors...free, problem gone!

Jim

 

Drums are always painted the first time the wheels are off on each and every car with drums I have ever owned. Just looks better.

I have also never warped a set of rotors on any vehilce I was the primary or only driver (shops vehicles not included, too many drivers). The couple of times I rotated the tires on the HHR, I never saw corrosion like that on mine (or any other so far). I do make sure the hub is cleaned off. Also remember to look at the backside of the wheel for anything there.

One big thing I can tell people is to allow time for braking. If you must do a quick or panic stop. Allow the wheel to roll some slowly after you stop so you don't have a glowing red pad cooking that spot of the rotor. You can warp any rotor within 50 miles, reguardless of make, model, or brand.

 

Same Here

 

Yeah Solman, I agree with everything you said.

I forgot to mention to clean the inside of the wheel also, thanks. Also, if you did not know, I live in Arizona, so the car had not be exposed to rain or snow, when the "rust" pictures were taken. The rust was from once a month (maybe)car washes.

The hubs are "cleaned" and the car is taken to a local tire dealer for my lifetime rotation and balance (once in a while, I do my own rotation).

 

I do all mine. Even on the wifes MPV that had rotation and rebalance every 5K. I prefer to do it myself. I'll have to get a shot of the hubs on mine next rotation, but just did that not too long ago. That is the time I clean the inside of the wheels and hubs. Never had that much rust show up that I can remember. We rarely see any snow. But do have humidity and rainy seasons. Makes me wonder about water quality?

I'll continue to do my own. I don't have to use a tq wrench anymore. I get pretty close myself. I actually have not used mine in so long, not even sure where it is. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing.

 

I took a look at my wheels today and without taking the rim off I can see that there is the rust etc where it is showing up in Snoops pics. I also have the rust on the drum...would like to clean that up for sure.


I've never rotated my tires before(myself) What do you guys use? A floor jack and then jack stands? I'd have to assume all 4 wheels need to be off the ground to rotate in the correct pattern?


Goose

 

First time I did my own rotation, I did it the slow and painful way

Jack up car with scissor jack, take wheel off, put donut spare on, lower car, move to next wheel, repeat.

I was going to use my floor jack, but could not find a decent spot to jack the car up without bending the pinch welds at the lift points.

I have since bought a floor jack pad adapter that allows me to jack up the HHR using a floor jack at the lift points.

 

So are you still doing it by putting the donut on or are you using jack stands?


Goose