Brake problem 2006 hhr
#11
periodically look at the brake fluid tank - the level is lowered or not.
If the brake fluid is old (more than 15000 miles) - can be replaced. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Absorbs moisture from the air and loses its quality. The fluid is a penny, work on replacement - inexpensive. If you're already going to the dealer - replacement fluid (still pay 1 time). But after changing the fluid it is difficult to keep the air in the pipeline, in addition - a full warranty. You can go to court if a problem occurs.
If the brake fluid is old (more than 15000 miles) - can be replaced. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Absorbs moisture from the air and loses its quality. The fluid is a penny, work on replacement - inexpensive. If you're already going to the dealer - replacement fluid (still pay 1 time). But after changing the fluid it is difficult to keep the air in the pipeline, in addition - a full warranty. You can go to court if a problem occurs.
#12
Go to the dealership
I'm not going to explain how I replace my pads. But "bleeding the brakes" is unnecessary. OK, Ok just take the top off the master cylinder reservoir. This takes care of the expansion when you compress the piston. Dirt and Bad Fluid DO NOT "settle" in the calipers. The entire fluid system gets contaminated due to a chemical reaction.(thus the change in color of the fluid in the reservoir over time) This contamination can be measured by using a kit from your local parts house. It contains strips of paper which you dip into the reservoir. Depending on the color of the strip, it tells you when it's time to change the fluid. You WILL need to go to the dealership to get your ABS system bled properly. Have the fluid changed while you're there.
#13
I'm not going to explain how I replace my pads. But "bleeding the brakes" is unnecessary. OK, Ok just take the top off the master cylinder reservoir. This takes care of the expansion when you compress the piston. Dirt and Bad Fluid DO NOT "settle" in the calipers. The entire fluid system gets contaminated due to a chemical reaction.(thus the change in color of the fluid in the reservoir over time) This contamination can be measured by using a kit from your local parts house. It contains strips of paper which you dip into the reservoir. Depending on the color of the strip, it tells you when it's time to change the fluid. You WILL need to go to the dealership to get your ABS system bled properly. Have the fluid changed while you're there.
#14
You have never heard of dirt and other contamination that settles in the caliper, master cyl.,wheel cyls,and for that matter the brake lines? I believe he stated that he don't have abs. He may not have to go to the dealer just yet. I do agree that flushing and changing the brake fluid is a good practice.
That said, a reason for opening the bleeder on a caliper before pushing the piston back in, is so you don't screw up the abs. On vehicles that don't have abs I just push the fluid back up into the master cylinder and have never had any negative results from that from my own or customer's vehicle.
As an earlier poster stated, brake fluid does tend to get nasty after a period and changing it is a good idea if it is dark colored. (It should be nearly clear/amber colored and transparent.) There are different specifications on the fluid and it is important to use the correct type. (not brand, specification) Most vehicles use DOT 3 but some use a silicone based fluid. If you use the wrong type it can get expensive... It is usually marked right on the brake fluid cap.
#16
I'm my experience, the "dirt" in a braking system tends to be a byproduct of internal corrosion over time. DOT 3 fluid is naturally hygroscopic so even in a "sealed" system you will have trace amounts of moisture entrained in the brake fluid, hence corrosion in various components. Unless the seals on the caliper pistons have perished the chances of dirt getting into the calipers and the brake lines that way is not too likely, but not impossible. I'd like to see an eventual adoption of DOT 5 synthetic fluid in all cars, its non-hygroscopic and much more stable over time, plus it has a much higher boiling point to prevent brake fade.
#17
I guess I upset people by using a slang word like "dirt" I guess I should of used more ten dollar words. For those that dont beleive that braks systems don't get crap (another slang word) in them then empty out you master cyl a look whats laying in the bottom of the reservoir. after you have done that then explain to me how you think that the crap in the bottom of your reservoir is not in the whole braking system. Why do people want to fight all the time. I have my ways you have you ways can't we agree to disagree?
#18
Hey Lucky, please forgive me for any contribution to your irritation, it wasn't intentional. Believe me, I've seen enough crap come out of brake systems over the years and I'm sure it finds its way in every way you can imagine. I guess I'm guilty of using ten dollar words, its a side effect of my legal background and the engineering degree that proceeded it, hard habit to break. Again, please accept my apology for any slight that I have made against you, it wasn't intentional and I'm very sorry.
#20
Hey Lucky, please forgive me for any contribution to your irritation, it wasn't intentional. Believe me, I've seen enough crap come out of brake systems over the years and I'm sure it finds its way in every way you can imagine. I guess I'm guilty of using ten dollar words, its a side effect of my legal background and the engineering degree that proceeded it, hard habit to break. Again, please accept my apology for any slight that I have made against you, it wasn't intentional and I'm very sorry.