Brake solution?
06-28-2010, 06:01 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
The key is to make sure the hub bearing has less than .0002 play and to seat the brakes in when new.
Brakes are not seated from the factory or by most dealer when replaced. THis will lead to pad material sticking in spots unevenly on some rotors. This ceates the pulsing of the pedal.
LRO is when the rotor begins to wobble and wears uneven in thickness. Many think when they turn the rotor it is warped when the thickness is what is off.
May teat the symptom but never address the cause because they think the pads or rotors are at fault when it is not the real issue.
Use a good quality pad on a stock quality rotor then seat them in. Also have the hubs check for latteral run out.
If you want fancy rotors and you can see them in the wheels then spend the extra money but if not just stick to the solid rotors as they work as good as anything you will buy and they will cost you much less. You would be better off buying a good quality pad.
The best pad out right now is the EBC Red Stuff for the HHR or one of equal quality. They are the right combo of quality material with no cheap fillers. THey also are great for wear and less dust. Buy cheap brakes you get cheap material. There are some cheaper pads out there that are near as good but you will not get them for less than $25.
Just make sure to bed them in as this is why everyone does not have an issue and some do.
08-31-2010, 05:59 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
More than not they are of a high Carbon content.
It is cheap, works well to transfer heat and will combine with fillers well.
It also leaves a lot of dust.
Most better pads tend to be Cabon fiber based or kevlar with few if any chap fillers.
If you can see metal or copper shavings in a pad they are usally cheap. Remember that OE parts like pads can be like the tires and be the lowest bidder of the contract to GM. They may work but they often are not the best option. Just look at the OE tires we often get.
It is cheap, works well to transfer heat and will combine with fillers well.
It also leaves a lot of dust.
Most better pads tend to be Cabon fiber based or kevlar with few if any chap fillers.
If you can see metal or copper shavings in a pad they are usally cheap. Remember that OE parts like pads can be like the tires and be the lowest bidder of the contract to GM. They may work but they often are not the best option. Just look at the OE tires we often get.
08-31-2010, 12:45 PM
#15
Platinum Member
Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 15,968
Thanks, these sure leave a lot of brake dust.
I'm thinking about something that produces less dust.
I'm used to semi-metallic pads I had on my S-10
Now you see a lot of ceramic pads, never used them. But have read both good & bad about them.
I'm thinking about something that produces less dust.
I'm used to semi-metallic pads I had on my S-10
Now you see a lot of ceramic pads, never used them. But have read both good & bad about them.
08-31-2010, 01:54 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-17-2006
Location: Dallas, GA
Posts: 6,052
No brake dust. But the stocks on mine didn't seem to leave any either. Maybe they use a different compound on the panel?
08-31-2010, 02:23 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-17-2006
Location: Dallas, GA
Posts: 6,052
Yes. So far been happy with the results. I'm still going to take the stock rotors in to have them turned just in case one day...... They are just stacked in the NAPA boxes in the garage with the stock pads and the receipt.