Update: fixed still not sure what caused itWent to the shop put it on the evac machine/vaccum and filled it up now it's workingRefrigerant doesn't go bad so not sure why evacuating old refrigerant and putting New In fixed it.

 

Old R134A just doesn’t hold up, it’s been replaced by 12A up here

 

Sounds a lot like the evaporator was freezing up, due to low freon/r134a.

 

from the few mechanics that were in the shop with me said r134a just goes bad sometimes (which is completely against everything I've heard before)
the machine pulled the old refrigerant so it definitely was not low, and it held the vacuum , no sign of UV dye (3 mechanics who work in my friends shop and myself looked everywhere) so i guess chalk it up to bad refrigerant because that's the only explanation , and i guess i learned something new today. (never heard of refrigerant just going bad before)

 

How old is you cabin air filter? I bought a K&N and wash it out every 6 months

 

Way back, in another lifetime when I worked at a GM Advanced Product facility, we had serious test problems with the test AC units under development. It was discovered the R134 was contaminated with moisture. Don't remember the percentage of contamination. We shipped the entire supply back to them and they confirmed the findings. They stated that R134 was highly susceptible to moisture, at that time. So probably, ONE of the issues of R134 going bad is if it is subjected to moisture.... more so than other freons.

 

Excuse me friend, in what position does the relay you comment go? ami tells me the scanner that the ac relay does not work

 

Relay work in any position that they will fit. If there is a OBD code P0128 (thermostat stuck open) or the coolant temperature is lower than 180F when driving the AC is disabled. The ONLY thermostat to use is AC/Delco 131-158.

 

Just to comment about an AC control that is mis-used by many people, the MAX AC button. Recirculation button is another description. By either name, the MAX/RE-CIRC isn't used for daily driving, only for those traffic jams where you aren't moving much, to prevent entry of fumes inside the cabin.

If you drive with the MAX/RECIC button on, you get cold hi/humidity cold air from the system. This WILL FOG the windows after a few hours. When you come out the next day/s to use the vehicle, after a few days you'll see obvious moisture on the inside of the windows, but you don't know all the moisture is also in everything inside the car soaking in the carpet and seats. On a rainy day the windows can fog bad enough you can't see out.

Normal AC operation, the systems has outside air coming in, the AC dries out the air when cooling it. It may take days to finally eliminate all the window fogging. If you turn off the button when the windows fog over, it could take 3-5 minutes for them to start clearing. 10-15 minutes for them to clear completely, and you can then turn off the rear window defrost switch.

 

Not exactly correct; The AC evaporator removes moisture from the air that passes over it, no matter where it comes from. The AC runs when in recirc or defrost, with no indicator, because it is removing moisture to prevent fogging. When on recirc the AC removes moisture caused by the occupants breath. When in recirc the evaporator dries and cools dry and cool air if no one is in the cabin. If you experience fogging with the AC running there is a problem somewhere.

The rear window defroster turns itself off after a set interval, I think 15 minutes.