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Check Charge System woes ... Again

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Old 07-11-2016 | 12:07 PM
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Xcjumpman's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield, Ca
Check Charge System woes ... Again

Hi guys

I have a 2007 Chevy HHR and it's been a headache as of late. Yes I've searched but it seems most people have simply replaced their alternator or belt to resolve their "check charge system" warning light.

It started about a week ago when I replaced the rear main seal. Once everything was put back together the car wouldn't start/crank. So I rechecked my fuses and relays and I didn't fully tighten down my fuse box under the hood so some fuses and relays weren't making contact. Once it was nice and tight I attempted to start it but the battery was dead. I jump started it and ran fine but with the check charge system light on so I decided to change the battery. It's been a week with the new battery and the light hasn't gone away. Voltage with the car OFF is 12.55-12.6. With the car on its 13.75 with load it's 13.55. I'm not sure what the specs are but to me the alternator is working fine. Every day I have been searching and looking through the wiring diagrams trying to find what it could be ... Could I haves messed something up? Or is it a coincidence that after repairs my alternator suddenly begins to go south? Or it WAS the battery and it just simply takes some time for the light to come off?

Ps: car hasn't left me stranded and it's been driving normal since. And those above readings have been consistent

Thanks guys and sorry if this is a repost

Last edited by Xcjumpman; 07-11-2016 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Forget to add info
Old 07-11-2016 | 02:33 PM
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Replacing the rear main seal implies you at least jounced the fuse box around if not R&R.

Did you look at the battery main connection to the fuse box? It goes from there to the starter and alternator. Also, check the grounds that you likely had to unbolt.

Of course you could go to an auto parts place an ask them to "check charge system" as the car is advising.
Old 07-11-2016 | 05:10 PM
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From: Bakersfield, Ca
Originally Posted by donbrew
Replacing the rear main seal implies you at least jounced the fuse box around if not R&R.

Did you look at the battery main connection to the fuse box? It goes from there to the starter and alternator. Also, check the grounds that you likely had to unbolt.

Of course you could go to an auto parts place an ask them to "check charge system" as the car is advising.

Yup I removed and replaced the fuse box. Battery connections are good. And so are my grounds. The only two that I unbolted were the ones on the trans.

Also, I have a battery charge tester and both the battery and alternator passed. I took it to autozone and oreilly's for a second opinion and it cleared those tests too.

After finding that I left my fuse box loose I triple checked the rest of my connections, fuses, and relays and they are good.

The light didn't come on until I jumped started the car.

I just check my voltage again under load and it's at 13.75. Still consistent but light is still on.
Old 07-11-2016 | 07:12 PM
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when you jumpstarted, where did you attach ground?
Old 07-12-2016 | 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
when you jumpstarted, where did you attach ground?
Negative terminal of the battery... Did I mess up?
Old 07-12-2016 | 07:22 AM
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No, just checking; you would not believe how many people think the fuse box is the battery and hook the negative to the other lug (which is the EPS). For future reference look in the Owner Manual for the suggested method, it is different.

It is a bit dangerous to hook the negative directly to the battery.

That funny looking thing on the batt neg cable is a current sensor, part of the charging system. I wonder if that got disturbed somehow? It is a passive part and 99% don't think it does anything.
Old 07-12-2016 | 04:38 PM
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From: Bakersfield, Ca
yeah I thought the same thing. I looked at it and it seems to be undisturbed. I don't know man I guess I'll keep driving till something goes out lol
Old 07-12-2016 | 05:24 PM
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The voltage is low in that new battery, running it should be over 14.0 volts, it is very possible the new battery wasn't fully charged and or has a dead cell! We've seen it before!
Old 07-12-2016 | 06:53 PM
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From: Bakersfield, Ca
Originally Posted by Oldblue
The voltage is low in that new battery, running it should be over 14.0 volts, it is very possible the new battery wasn't fully charged and or has a dead cell! We've seen it before!
What do you suggest I do? I bought it at auto zone and I took it back. They said the battery and alternator both are good. What should my battery voltage be with the car off? Currently it's consistently between 12.54-12.6. I was thinking maybe the alternator is going bad or it's the ECM
Old 07-17-2016 | 02:07 PM
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They can check the alternator, my running voltage is appropriately 14.6.
Did they check your battery or the voltage at the underhood fuse box positive terminal and the strut tower ground point?
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