kds

Obviously my cheap scanner wouldn't show me, My snap on scanner is too far out of date. But can you tell if the camshaft timing is off with the professional scan tools or is this something you need to pull the timing cover on and check the marks? I'm tring to confirm that the repair shop would be able to tell me if the timing was defenetly off. I could only pull the codes P0016 and P0017, but no actual readings.

donbrew

The codes tell you the timing is off. What more exactly do you need?

You might be able to get away with a tensioner. But chain & guides is likely.

Oldblue

If you turn the wrenchs then you're gonna save some cash!

kds

donbrew, but you can get those codes even without the timing chain jumping from my understanding Like if just the VVT solenoids are bad, or a crank or cam sensor is bad. What Im asking is would a pro scanner like a tech 2, SOLUS, Encore, Genisys, or something along tose lines tell me the values of the cam in degrees vs the crank. I havn't worked on driveabuility on VVT vehicles that I remember when I worked as a tech. They were something that was still talked about that were being developed. So I don't know if the scan tools will tell you something such as current cam timing difference and command value. Im a little behind in the current technology.
Oldblue, unable to work right now, im disabled. Just had surgery. Can't even walk on my own at the moment. Just laying here typing is a challenge right now

donbrew

There are no "numbers". The code is present, the technician must then go to the diagnostic tree.

The code is set if the crankshaft sensor does not agree with the camshaft sensor. Could be any of the components, but there is no adjustment available.

Here is a link:
P0016 Crankshaft Camshaft Position Correlation DTC

kds

Interesting to know. I believe I had a diagnostic tree a year ago when I came to the same conclusion that I would need to pull off the timing cover to continue. I cant seem to find it on all data now.
The thing is I told them these two codes, along with a few dealerships. I also explained that I changed the VT Solenoids even though this don't mean I don't still have a bad solenoid (new don't mean they work). I remember coming to the conclusion it probably wast the VT solenoids (I got them cheap online) but either the timing belt, something with the cam, or possibly something with the crank or cam sensor. It's been a year ago. My legs were bad then too so I couldn't do much. And may not have had my meter on me. I don't remember all the details.
But yes, I know theirs no "adjustment" that can be made. I'm just really surprised GM isn't giving us any actual live values. That's what I assumed the repair shop was going by. The convo led me to believe they confirmed the timing was off (I told them this was my thoughts on it being off when I took it in based on the codes).
Basically I already confirmed the timing was off and it needed pulled apart for future diagnosis. If that all we have to tell is the timing is off by both of these codes being thrown in combination.
One of the things that kinda bothers me is they told me it would cost me at most $90 to diagnosis and tell me for sure what I needed. Basically all they did was confirm what I told them for $90.
They assured me worse case senerio is $1400. I have a feeling either A - this is what they will charge me regardless, or B they will do it and say oh we would low compression and bent valves, or C - some other issue and it will cost a little more.
I feel helpless and at their mercy being disabled right now 200 miles away. And things don't totally sound right. I did see their right next to a dishonest tow shop (I know his from prior experience) . So they all probably associate with each other which makes me nervous.

donbrew

It needs a timing set.

I bet the guides are in pieces.