There sure is a lot of sludge build up in that engine. Looks like someone has neglected changing the oil when it was supposed to be done. Or, the improper oil was used.
Those missing top guide pieces will need to be found and removed. The oil pan will need to be removed and cleaned out also.

 

I don’t think the piston can come up enough distance to hit the spark plug. That piece that broke off might be hiding behind the front cover.



This is an example of a loose chain slapping against that upper guide, weakening the top plate and snapping it off.

 

So this is where we are at. And with the suggestions from here and friends and a lovely mechanic I ran into outside AutoZone who overheard a convo...

Pulled the plugs safely and didn't lose any pieces.
Next step ... See if timing is on point. If it is, and since chain is still intact.. that gives us an opportunity to do a compression test. If the compression is off... Stop and engine shot. But if compression is ok, change out timing and put new plugs. Pull drain pan, get those pieces out, new oil, etc.
​​​​​​Did I miss anything?

 

A compression test involves cranking the engine.

 

Yes that's why I was told to see if timing was on point first because the chain did not break and if the timing did not jump then someone told me it wouldn't be too devastating to crank over for the compression test but since we aren't as mechanically inclined as others a borescope would show me a bunch of stuff I wouldn't even know I was looking at. So the compression test would be the easiest way to tell me if anything happened to the valves, pistons or whatever.

So correct me if I'm wrong or was informed wrong. Do you think that's a mistake

 

Was the person male or female ? Lol.

 

How does this rando propose to check the timing? We already know it isn't correct from the codes. The ignition and valve timing is controlled by the ECM and changes constantly. If a human can sense any slack in the chain it is loose. With the cam cover off you can manually turn the engine and observe the chain.

 

To check the timing chain for proper position, you must remove splash guards(easy), the crankshaft pulley(not easy) and the timing cover(fairly easy). The crankshaft pulley bolt will need to be replaced with new.

It may take many, many revolutions of the rotating assembly before all 3 timing marks line up.

The leak down test I mentioned before, requires turning the engine over by hand, by the crankshaft pulley bolt, only a few rotations. Leakage through the valves will indicate that the engine is out of timing.

If there is leakage through the valves, then retest. Starting before TDC, slowly turning by hand through TDC and past, will tell if the valves are simply out of position, or if they are bent. If you can find a position where they seal, you're simply out of timing. If they cannot seal in any position near TDC, they are bent.

 

Ok that leak down test sounds like for us a better bet. It did seem like quite a bit of work the other way.

 

If the chain is intact and the timing marks line up , change the timing chain, because the valves are most likely just fine! Do not turn the crankshaft counter clockwise. And consider the possibility of the chain snapping whilst turning it over the do compression test.