Crank but no start!
#62
Update for those who are still interested.....
Got car put back together. Didn't install chain. Since timing was on and synced up. Car started. Ran. Around parking lot. Rattle gone. Chalked the rattle up to the guide that was broken sitting by chain.
However, car is running very sluggish. Peddle to the floor and goes very slow. Wanted to pull codes. So we did and got.
P0010
P0013
C342D
Researching looks like it might be those solenoids, the ones he said we're covered in shavings. We cleaned them off just wiping. Do you think that could be the sluggish running problem?
My plan is oil/ filter change, new air filter, we have a set of new solenoids at my friend's. We are going to do the timing chain since I know it runs. And we know there is actually a bad wire to the tps sensor so will do that.
What do you guys think? The sluggishness is coming from something above ?
Got car put back together. Didn't install chain. Since timing was on and synced up. Car started. Ran. Around parking lot. Rattle gone. Chalked the rattle up to the guide that was broken sitting by chain.
However, car is running very sluggish. Peddle to the floor and goes very slow. Wanted to pull codes. So we did and got.
P0010
P0013
C342D
Researching looks like it might be those solenoids, the ones he said we're covered in shavings. We cleaned them off just wiping. Do you think that could be the sluggish running problem?
My plan is oil/ filter change, new air filter, we have a set of new solenoids at my friend's. We are going to do the timing chain since I know it runs. And we know there is actually a bad wire to the tps sensor so will do that.
What do you guys think? The sluggishness is coming from something above ?
#65
So. You've got a timing chain that's stretched to the point of breaking or jumping a sprocket. You have the top guide that completely sheared off and is down in the engine fixing to destroy that engine. You've got a lot of metal shavings that you haven't determined yet where they came from.
AND you're running the engine AND driving it which puts a load on it.
Don't be surprised if it doesn't last long or totally blows up.
Sorry to be blunt but that's where this is headed if you run the engine without fixing the problems and cleaning out all those metal fragments.
edit: add to that the massive oil leak you said it had. Plus the fact that it looks like it's been run dry of oil before.
AND you're running the engine AND driving it which puts a load on it.
Don't be surprised if it doesn't last long or totally blows up.
Sorry to be blunt but that's where this is headed if you run the engine without fixing the problems and cleaning out all those metal fragments.
edit: add to that the massive oil leak you said it had. Plus the fact that it looks like it's been run dry of oil before.
Last edited by firemangeorge; 08-02-2020 at 07:54 PM. Reason: added
#66
The reason the guides got trashed is the chain had too much slack in it, more that the tensioners could adjust for. You fixed the symptoms not the problem. It would have taken 10 more minutes to replace the chain, I don't understand why not do it.
#67
All we want is the best for you and your HHR.
As a single mother of 2, I understand that money is tight,
BUT, you should know to fix an issue, as opposed to sticking a band-aid on it.
The helpful info that has been shared here is to ensure a long ang meanigful relationship with your vehicle.
If you remember a commercial from the '90's
" You can pay me now or pay me later".
As a single mother of 2, I understand that money is tight,
BUT, you should know to fix an issue, as opposed to sticking a band-aid on it.
The helpful info that has been shared here is to ensure a long ang meanigful relationship with your vehicle.
If you remember a commercial from the '90's
" You can pay me now or pay me later".
#68
Shed a little more light...
Alright was tired of the telephone game. Im the one helping out. So the top guide was at bottom of timing chain, fished out with a magnet (i know i know don't ask and i know) the car had to be moved, otherwise it would have been towed. The massive oil leak, isn't the oil it's the transmission pan. The no start was cause the faculty sparks in 2 and 3. The oil, for easier words, got flushed. I just put in the new oil, oil filter, air filter and solenoids. Timing will be another weekend. After that i have a 2 questions. The foam around air filter box, can that be removed? And 2 looking at the front of the vehicle at the very bottom of rear, look at brake fluid cap then down and a straight line with spark plug in 4. Silver looking disc connecting what i would call l think were the sway bars, idk if that's the right word but it's connecting both front wheels, what is it?
#70
First thing Bobby, thanx for being a helping hand. I like hearing those stories.
The foam is to quiet down the intake noise and a little heat resistance.
The 'discs' that I see are the sway bar bushing retainers. They are directly rear of the steering rack.
Thanx again and good luck with your repairs.
The foam is to quiet down the intake noise and a little heat resistance.
The 'discs' that I see are the sway bar bushing retainers. They are directly rear of the steering rack.
Thanx again and good luck with your repairs.
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