Don't think it's the same person because I had already cleared up the start/no start with the OP---Post #7.
Maybe the OP will come back with some better info. (and tell their family member to quit confusing the thread)

 

The starter is pulling the voltage from the ground of being on the engine. The engine is somehow being energized with 12v. Starter is definitely not to blame

 

Not sure by your wordage if you are that knowledgeable about 12 volt automotive systems.
Anyhow. If you're feeding a "hot" ground circuit to the starter, you will have starter problems. Most likely will end up frying the starter and some other electronics..

Have you physically checked any of the things suggested ? Wrong cables attached at battery. Shorted negative cable
FYI. Many years ago I was in automotive repair. Wiring problems were one of my specialties. I've seen some strange ones but most of the times it would be one of those "duh" moments where someone wired something wrong.

 

Have checked all suggested including recalls. But this is what doesn't make sense. Starter with positive battery line removed only has the line to initiate it hooked up. And when the battery is hooked up, it still turns over.

 

What happened just before this started? What wires were messed with? Have you looked for wires frayed/burned laying on things they shouldn't?

The starter is grounded to the engine by it's mounting bolts.

The crank relay sends a + signal to the starter solenoid. Try testing the crnk relay, it may be stuck. (like I suggested 2 pages back)

Or, the solenoid might be stuck.

I still don't know how or why the fuel pump and fan.

I bet you don't understand how the solenoid works, here is the wiring diagram. It both kicks the gear and supplies the voltage.

 

I completely removed the starter. Still have voltage on engine.

 

Only way to have "voltage on the engine" which is a grounded block, would be to have a direct + short to something that would be part of the grounding circuit. You need to start at the battery and follow the ground cable forward looking for that short.
And please answer Don's questions about when and how this problem began.

As a side note. And don't take this the wrong way, we recently had a member with some electrical issues. Turns out he did have a problem but he didn't know the correct way to use a volt/ohm meter. So all his testing was flawed. Not saying you don't know how but I'm starting to doubt your testing ability. A lot of what you've described SHOULD have at the least blown some fuses or relays. At the worst, caught something on fire.

 

Started happening during a start up. Nothing special. Did find a blow fuse for fuel system have to check what number it was. If I left it cranking I'm sure it would have caused more trouble but as soon as it started battery was unplugged. Have been plugging it in for testing. Have used volt/ohm meters for years but never had a problem like this to track

 

Everything was normal one day then the next you turned the key and what?
Has the fuel pump been replaced? What fuse was blown? Alternator replaced? Anything tapped into any wire?

Red lead of VOM (set to 20 volts DC) on the large red wire on the underhood fuse box and black lead on the engine block. What reading?
Black lead to small bolt on strut tower. What reading?
Red lead on engine black lead on strut tower. What reading?

VOM set to Ohms/continuity Red lead on engine block Black lead on strut tower. What reading.

 

What does the pwr trn relay go to exactly