Disappearing coolant
#21
The water pump is mounted in the block(machined recess), but there is no physical penetration of the crankcase by the oil pump. Only in the very remote chance that the block itself has cracked behind the water pump(actually the water jacket behind the pump)admitting coolant directly into the block, would you see coolant being pumped into the sump.
The normal failure mode of the water pump is external leakage at the front of the pump through the shaft seals, this will show up as an external leak with attendant coolant traces on the outside of the engine...and a puddle on the ground.
In order of probability, you have...
1. A blown head gasket.
2. A cracked cylinder head.
3. A cracked block.
The normal failure mode of the water pump is external leakage at the front of the pump through the shaft seals, this will show up as an external leak with attendant coolant traces on the outside of the engine...and a puddle on the ground.
In order of probability, you have...
1. A blown head gasket.
2. A cracked cylinder head.
3. A cracked block.
#22
This has all been great information and thanks for the help.
Another question, I have seen mention on the forum about pellets used to seal up leaks. If you know what I am talking about, would that be worth trying?
Another question, I have seen mention on the forum about pellets used to seal up leaks. If you know what I am talking about, would that be worth trying?
#23
I will give my 2¢. Pressure test the coolant system. If it doesn't hold pressure and nothing leaks out externally then you need to pull the head. It probably needs a new cylinder head and gasket. We have done many over the last 5 years, but no more than any other vehicle.
If you don't have a coolant system pressure tester either buy one or call around to find out who charges the least amount for diagnosis. If you can't replace a cylinder head yourself then take it to a shop that can and that you trust.
Although there are a lot of good suggestions on diagnosing this issue, the bottom line is I am betting your head gasket is blown and the head needs to be replace. These heads cannot be repaired by machine shops and a used one may have more issues than you already have. Pellets will not fix your issue.
If you don't have a coolant system pressure tester either buy one or call around to find out who charges the least amount for diagnosis. If you can't replace a cylinder head yourself then take it to a shop that can and that you trust.
Although there are a lot of good suggestions on diagnosing this issue, the bottom line is I am betting your head gasket is blown and the head needs to be replace. These heads cannot be repaired by machine shops and a used one may have more issues than you already have. Pellets will not fix your issue.
#24
A "new junkyard" engine is the most cost effective way to go. That's my $.04. Don't get into the "I bet there's a $20.00 solution" , been there, done that; you will go broke. The chemicals will not work, except at the very beginning of a leak and then only for a while. If the coolant is disappearing at that rate, for that length of time, with NO puddles except under the tailpipe, Major damage has occurred! If you get a $100 head gasket job, the bearings will seize up soon, then you got a very expensive "boat anchor".
#25
Based on what everyone here has said plus what a couple dealerships have said I am going to replace the head gasket.
Just curious and so I have all my bases covered, is there any way to test for a crack in the block?
Just curious and so I have all my bases covered, is there any way to test for a crack in the block?
#29
Did you at least do a pressure test First before tearing it down.
#30
hope everthing goes well for you, and it is just the head gasket burnt to the combustion chamber and not the water(dexcool)jacket, to oil pan, thus washing out the bearings. keep us posted !!