Dome Override
10-28-2009, 11:10 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-19-2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
Dome Light Switch
If you want to have no dome light or mirror light with the doors open or rear liftgate open pull the 10 amp fuse #27 above the BCM on the right side of the console (check your fuse cover to be certain of your fuse number.)
I am planning on installing an extension to fuse 27 with an inline switch that will allow turning off the interior lights, I will mount the switch somewhere on the console or a convenient location.
I have been working on my HHR lately with the liftgate open frequently, hence I currently have fuse 27 pulled, until I complete the project.
When I get around to starting the fuse mod I will post images, parts required and steps taken to accomplish this.
I am planning on installing an extension to fuse 27 with an inline switch that will allow turning off the interior lights, I will mount the switch somewhere on the console or a convenient location.
I have been working on my HHR lately with the liftgate open frequently, hence I currently have fuse 27 pulled, until I complete the project.
When I get around to starting the fuse mod I will post images, parts required and steps taken to accomplish this.
10-28-2009, 01:29 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: 09-04-2009
Location: Moab, UT
Posts: 86
That was the next possible option I have. Put a switch (and a fuse) in place of the fuse that controlls power for the lights.
You can do whatever you want and say whatever you want about the sound but there is nothing anywhere that says you have to have a good sound, it simply sounds incredibly selfish to me. I'm sure you'll say otherwise, but the vast majority of people cannot tell any difference when the doors and/or rear hatch are open in the sound. Your only options apparently are close everything when not getting in/out or loading/unloading cargo or putting a switch in the place of the fuse or live with the lights being on or park your butt in the seat. The lights don't use anywhere near the power the stereo does anyway. I would be much more worried about it running down the battery and I will gladly run it all day with no worries about the battery.
You can do whatever you want and say whatever you want about the sound but there is nothing anywhere that says you have to have a good sound, it simply sounds incredibly selfish to me. I'm sure you'll say otherwise, but the vast majority of people cannot tell any difference when the doors and/or rear hatch are open in the sound. Your only options apparently are close everything when not getting in/out or loading/unloading cargo or putting a switch in the place of the fuse or live with the lights being on or park your butt in the seat. The lights don't use anywhere near the power the stereo does anyway. I would be much more worried about it running down the battery and I will gladly run it all day with no worries about the battery.
10-28-2009, 05:39 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-20-2009
Location: Fort Worth Texas
Posts: 106
That was the next possible option I have. Put a switch (and a fuse) in place of the fuse that controlls power for the lights.
You can do whatever you want and say whatever you want about the sound but there is nothing anywhere that says you have to have a good sound, it simply sounds incredibly selfish to me. I'm sure you'll say otherwise, but the vast majority of people cannot tell any difference when the doors and/or rear hatch are open in the sound. Your only options apparently are close everything when not getting in/out or loading/unloading cargo or putting a switch in the place of the fuse or live with the lights being on or park your butt in the seat. The lights don't use anywhere near the power the stereo does anyway. I would be much more worried about it running down the battery and I will gladly run it all day with no worries about the battery.
You can do whatever you want and say whatever you want about the sound but there is nothing anywhere that says you have to have a good sound, it simply sounds incredibly selfish to me. I'm sure you'll say otherwise, but the vast majority of people cannot tell any difference when the doors and/or rear hatch are open in the sound. Your only options apparently are close everything when not getting in/out or loading/unloading cargo or putting a switch in the place of the fuse or live with the lights being on or park your butt in the seat. The lights don't use anywhere near the power the stereo does anyway. I would be much more worried about it running down the battery and I will gladly run it all day with no worries about the battery.
It's okay. Comfortably, we all have our ways of doing things. I actually listen to music (plus I'm a recording artist and a student engineer so I'm always listening to music) so I can tell the difference when the doors are open and when they are closed. I can hear things in music that most folks (except for audiophiles and engineers) can't. I listen to music for clarity and dynamic range...not to just play it "loud." Yes, with the doors open the bottom speakers produce more sound not because of volume but because of range and the range is muffled when the doors are closed. You can play your house stereo with your house windows up but it wouldn't be the same sound as if you were inside the house with the windows closed. It's the same with have the doors open or closed. When you sit in the car with the windows up, yes you will get the full range because you are INSIDE the car and closed in. When you're outside the car, it's not the same effect even with the windows rolled down because you can hear the tweets at the front but none of the full range of the speakers on the doors. That's why I open the doors...so that the full range comes out uninhibited.
When I'm not tailgating, I like to go to the park, car wash, and other places and just let the music play. It's not to entertain everyone at the place otherwise I'd hire a DJ and do a concert (which I perform and put on concerts as well). Also, when it gets dark, I can still do what I do without worrying about bugs flying into the dome lights should I want to roast some franks and marshmellows with the family while at the same time, listening to the music.
You don't have to agree of course. That's the beautiful thing about life...we don't have to agree. It doesn't mean that I'm not listening to what you have to say of course. Different people do different things. At the park, we listen to music with the doors open. We play basketball and just conversate over music. We chill at the car wash and socialize. Some people show off their trunks with their amps and that's cool I don't knock it. My preference (when I have the funds of course) would be to have the amps underneath the seats so the only thing people might see is my sub box. Again, that's my preference. Actually, if I had my way, I would have a 12 inch woofer where the 8 inch woofer is already installed (with the factory pioneer premium system) with the magnet facing out and enclosed.
Well...if I had my way, I'd be off-roading in a 4x4 in the mountains but that's another story...LOL
Just my thoughts as well. Yes, a dome override switch needs to be on a vehicle period. Chevy (GM) made a bad call on that one for sure.
Deflace
10-29-2009, 11:40 AM
#14
New Member
Join Date: 09-28-2009
Location: Bon Aqua TN
Posts: 10
10-29-2009, 09:37 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-22-2009
Location: Rough & Ready, NE Calif
Posts: 240
"I can't imagine a vehicle that does not have a dome light override switch in one shape form or another. I talked to my dealer and they said there's not a way to put one on even if you switched out the current dome light for a 2008one with the override switch. I would've thought the wiring would be basically the same...just pop the current one out and replace it with a new 2008 dome light with the override switch ($59.72 to order the part)."
--Deflace--
Could a guy use the 2008 switch (as the on/off switch) and wire it to fuse #27??? I don't like the idea of an additional/new switch.
Any ideas???
Mo
--Deflace--
Could a guy use the 2008 switch (as the on/off switch) and wire it to fuse #27??? I don't like the idea of an additional/new switch.
Any ideas???
Mo
10-29-2009, 11:35 PM
#16
Platinum Member
Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 15,968
T 20-
I have an '08 & it has NO Override switch. Yes I can dim or brighten my gauge lights & turn on & off my dome light while cruising. But can NOT switch it off when doors are open.
For that, I must reach up to the dome light, & switch that switch to OFF, but the Rear-View mirror lights stay on.
Just for the record..
I have an '08 & it has NO Override switch. Yes I can dim or brighten my gauge lights & turn on & off my dome light while cruising. But can NOT switch it off when doors are open.
For that, I must reach up to the dome light, & switch that switch to OFF, but the Rear-View mirror lights stay on.
Just for the record..
10-30-2009, 09:44 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-29-2009
Location: Nashville, Tn
Posts: 114
I have my mirror turned upside down and pushed all the way up so no light problem there and as to the dome light switch I would start looking for a dome light out of a junk yard with a switch in it.
10-31-2009, 11:22 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-15-2008
Location: Newburgh, NY
Posts: 1,599
If you want to have no dome light or mirror light with the doors open or rear liftgate open pull the 10 amp fuse #27 above the BCM on the right side of the console (check your fuse cover to be certain of your fuse number.)
I am planning on installing an extension to fuse 27 with an inline switch that will allow turning off the interior lights, I will mount the switch somewhere on the console or a convenient location.
I have been working on my HHR lately with the liftgate open frequently, hence I currently have fuse 27 pulled, until I complete the project.
When I get around to starting the fuse mod I will post images, parts required and steps taken to accomplish this.
I am planning on installing an extension to fuse 27 with an inline switch that will allow turning off the interior lights, I will mount the switch somewhere on the console or a convenient location.
I have been working on my HHR lately with the liftgate open frequently, hence I currently have fuse 27 pulled, until I complete the project.
When I get around to starting the fuse mod I will post images, parts required and steps taken to accomplish this.
http://www.rv-partsplus.com/home/accessories/
11-01-2009, 08:19 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-19-2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
Dome Override
Excellent find 87silver. What is odd; that is the same switch I will be using, it is rated at 10 amps, Radio Shack #275-0693. The bypass shown is exactly what I am in the process of manufacturing. Cost of parts about 10 dollars for about 30 dollars more you can obtain this one at www.rv-partsplus.com. I will be locating the switch a few inches above the fuse panel on the passenger side of the console, there are not many areas behind the console where there is enough room to accommodate the switch without a longer run of wire, you will need about 1.5 inches of open area behind the console to allow for wire clearance that connect to the switch.
$39.95 and up (ATM Mini Fuse)
$39.95 and up (ATM Mini Fuse)
If you don't feel like fabricating a bypass circuit, there is a manufactured one on the market that many RVers use for the #8 fuse while towing their HHR behind a motorhome. There's no reason it wouldn't work for this purpose.
http://www.rv-partsplus.com/home/accessories/
http://www.rv-partsplus.com/home/accessories/
11-03-2009, 10:07 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-19-2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 124
Dome Override / Interior Light Switch
Please visit https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...899#post422899 - Installing Interior Dome/Mirror Light Switch, it is in the "How to Guide"
Last edited by unique_w; 11-05-2009 at 06:17 AM. Reason: Change Text
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post