Door locks crazy
#1
Door locks crazy
I got my 08 HHR last April first thing I noticed was the power door locks didn't work all the time with the key fob. Took it to a dealer where I got reamed for a new fob and "programming" Worked great the first couple of times then the drivers door started failing to unlock without multi pushes on the fob. This has now progressed to the driver rear door and intermitant rear passenger door. Now the driver door fails to lock with the fob and is starting to remain locked after going into park. If this was a computer I'd say it had a virus. Please help tks
Last edited by gomad2; 03-09-2013 at 09:10 AM. Reason: spelling
#2
On my '08 I had two 'lock' problems. First one was that the actual door lock actuator in the door went bad on both doors at two different times. If the lock actuators are working with the button on the door, then obviously that is not the problem.
The other problem I have encountered is with the key fob itself. If dropped too many times the soldered tabs for the battery contact tab becomes cracked with intermittent contact. I just re-soldered the tabs and it was fine. There is very little surface area for the solder to hang onto and the battery thickness stresses the contact at all times placing a load on those two small solder points.
Other than that, I don't know.
The other problem I have encountered is with the key fob itself. If dropped too many times the soldered tabs for the battery contact tab becomes cracked with intermittent contact. I just re-soldered the tabs and it was fine. There is very little surface area for the solder to hang onto and the battery thickness stresses the contact at all times placing a load on those two small solder points.
Other than that, I don't know.
#3
Grab the lock knob and work it up and down to see if its stiff..if it is then it will not work correctly..the actuator isnt that strong....many people have had this problem..especially anyone who has applied door sound deadener..the knob just barely clears the door hole..sp its easy to get it locked up..some have lubed it..some have enlarged the hole..but anyways..another angle to check out
#4
I've got the same kind of problems with my '08. I've had the dealer look at it, and all 4 of my actuators need replacing. They are charging full retail so of course want like $900 to replace all 4.
How a car that is only 6 yrs old needs all 4 actuators is beyond me as I've never had to replace even one in any other car I've had regardless of its age. Once it warms up a bit I've got to try to find a dealer online that isn't stupidly high priced to order them from and replace them myself.
How a car that is only 6 yrs old needs all 4 actuators is beyond me as I've never had to replace even one in any other car I've had regardless of its age. Once it warms up a bit I've got to try to find a dealer online that isn't stupidly high priced to order them from and replace them myself.
#5
Not so fast
I spent enough time looking into this – what I found was with the extra voltage(~15VDC) the alternator gave when the engine was running was enough to open and close the lock, versus only 12.5VDC with the engine off. This told me the solenoid was tired; when I took the locking actuator apart I found a small motor instead of a solenoid inside – I replaced this small motor and all has been fine since. Once outside the vehicle I tested this small motor and found if I applied voltage for a longer duration it worked.
Oh, and if I used the lock or unlock button on the FOB enough times the lock actuator would eventually comply with my wishes. Otherwise it often took me three to four unlock commands to get the door to unlock. Usually only three commands to get it to lock.
In my opinion this could be taken care of by GM in several different ways:
1) Better motors in the door lock actuators.
2) Extend the duration of the Lock and Unlock commands from the BCM. This would require BCM programming from the Dealer.
#7
There are so many possible solutions to your problem, See:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/repair-key-fob-remotes-worn-out-contacts-30813/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/keyfob-cold-solder-repair-22641/
#8
For a solution to my post #5 see:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/door-lock-assembly-fix-lots-pics-45839/#post701045
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/door-lock-assembly-fix-lots-pics-45839/#post701045
#9
My passenger door lock actuator got tired from almost day one of ownership. It didn’t work well in cold weather and also when using the FOB to activate it. Most of the time with the engine running it did work well when I shifted in and out of PARK or used the lock buttons on the door panels. Occasionally it did not.
I spent enough time looking into this – what I found was with the extra voltage(~15VDC) the alternator gave when the engine was running was enough to open and close the lock, versus only 12.5VDC with the engine off. This told me the solenoid was tired; when I took the locking actuator apart I found a small motor instead of a solenoid inside – I replaced this small motor and all has been fine since. Once outside the vehicle I tested this small motor and found if I applied voltage for a longer duration it worked.
Oh, and if I used the lock or unlock button on the FOB enough times the lock actuator would eventually comply with my wishes. Otherwise it often took me three to four unlock commands to get the door to unlock. Usually only three commands to get it to lock.
In my opinion this could be taken care of by GM in several different ways:
1) Better motors in the door lock actuators.
2) Extend the duration of the Lock and Unlock commands from the BCM. This would require BCM programming from the Dealer.
I spent enough time looking into this – what I found was with the extra voltage(~15VDC) the alternator gave when the engine was running was enough to open and close the lock, versus only 12.5VDC with the engine off. This told me the solenoid was tired; when I took the locking actuator apart I found a small motor instead of a solenoid inside – I replaced this small motor and all has been fine since. Once outside the vehicle I tested this small motor and found if I applied voltage for a longer duration it worked.
Oh, and if I used the lock or unlock button on the FOB enough times the lock actuator would eventually comply with my wishes. Otherwise it often took me three to four unlock commands to get the door to unlock. Usually only three commands to get it to lock.
In my opinion this could be taken care of by GM in several different ways:
1) Better motors in the door lock actuators.
2) Extend the duration of the Lock and Unlock commands from the BCM. This would require BCM programming from the Dealer.
#10
Door unlock issue
My 2006 HHR door locks work fine except above 90 degrees.
when the temps are above 90 sometimes the drivers door will not work and the a few minutes later its another door. Totally random both front and rear doors.
I also have a problem with the shifter not releasing from park when the temps are below 50 degrees.
I am thinking this is possibly a grounding problem.
when the temps are above 90 sometimes the drivers door will not work and the a few minutes later its another door. Totally random both front and rear doors.
I also have a problem with the shifter not releasing from park when the temps are below 50 degrees.
I am thinking this is possibly a grounding problem.