Be that as it may. I'd still like to try this. Normal driving isn't getting it done. The EVAP and CAT are still not complete, it's been over 3 weeks.

So now I understand the conditions for step 7, on the next page.

But the IMPORTANT note in the middle of step 7, to turn the ignition off for approximately 5 minutes to allow the sensors to cool, when is this supposed to be done?

 

Exactly which are showing "not ready"?
My experience was when it took 2 weeks to run the cat failed immediately after the EVAP posted "ready". I never figured out what was wrong, I had replaced the cat and the sensors, so I think there was something else going on. I just cut and pasted the instructions, I never got it to work.
This is only a guess:
Something was preventing the EVAP from running, then it ran in default time. Because the EVAP is forced after a set number of cold starts. So you need to look for reasons the EVAP doesn't run on schedule.
This explains some and has a simplified drive cycle. OBD2 Readiness Monitors Explained | OBD Auto Doctor

This is what NY says for GM cat testing:
GM: GM uses a two-part oxygen sensor monitor. The first part of the monitor runs after idling the engine for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. This checks the sensor heater circuit. After this, turn the A/C and defroster off, then accelerate at half throttle to 55 mph and hold at a steady 55 mph for three minutes. This will complete the second half of the monitor that checks the responsiveness of the O2 sensors.GM: The catalytic converter monitor runs after cruising at 55 mph for 5 minutes, but it may take up to five drive cycles at this speed before the monitor will run.

An example of some common enabling criteria to run the EVAP monitors drive cycle:

• The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) must be off
• Barometric pressure exceeds 75 Kpa
• At start-up, IAT and ECT is between 45°F and 85°F
• IAT is not more than 2°F greater than ECT
• ECT is not more than 12°F greater than IAT
• Fuel tank level is between 26 percent and 74 percent
• The TPS is between 9 percent and 35 percent
• The EVAP solenoid is at 50 percent pulse width PWM, within 65 seconds of engine run time

 

Thanks Don. Hopefully I can get the CAT testing to run. Although the part about running the AC and rear defroster is in direct conflict with the first post that says to turn off any electrical load.

Our smog testing does not require the EVAP to be ready.

 

The Federal EPA allows 1 incomplete for MY 2001 on (it was 2 before then). I think that means all states have to only allow 1.

 

Ok, 3 trips to work and back, 35 miles each way, so over 200 miles. The EVAP is now ready, but CAT is still not ready.

I have some local driving to do today, then a trip tomorrow, 23 miles each way. Hopefully the CAT will be ready after that. I'll call my shop and ask if they can test with this level of readiness.

 

I realized that the CEL is lit, U0073, twice.

Took it for a short drive, shut it down for an hour or so. Now I checked again, and there's only 1 U0073.

Hoping it's just a fluke, and the light will go out, run the CAT test, and get my smog check.

 

Ok, the CEL turned off. The code still shows as current.

 

Did the light burn out? What code? Cat codes should always set the CEL.
U0073 means one of the modules on the CANBUS is either not getting power or is disconnected or broken.

 

The light still works. Now I'm getting an occasional p0327. Sometimes pending, sometimes it sets hard. It has gone away on it's own each time. The old engine (and old knock sensor) gave me the same P0327 near the end of it's life. So I don't really suspect the knock sensor.

My mechanic said that the O2 sensors are very near their limit. Not enough to trigger a code, but very close. I suspect the downstream sensor, as the wire harness has been contacting the metal of the tunnel.

They printed a drive cycle with my VIN on it. The only difference I see from the one donbrew posted for 2009 is this: the IMPORTANT note shown in step 7, is instead noted before step 1. It makes more sense now. You turn the key to on, in order to verify the enable criteria, then shut it off for 5 minutes. Then go to step 2.

So I'm going to try this again. Oldblue suggested cleaning the O2 sensor, I'll try that, too.

Does anyone know if the P0327 is inhibiting the catalyst testing?

 

These are the conditions for running P0420: