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engine knock???

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Old 06-06-2014, 10:32 PM
  #11  
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You could just go to the bank and get a wad of 20's and start throwing them at the car. Probably better to try diagnosing and correcting actual problems.
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:41 AM
  #12  
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200,000 miles? That vehicle does not owe anybody anything.
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:56 AM
  #13  
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With that many miles, it could also be your timing chain has some extra slop in it. Hard to say, though, remotely...
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
Archoil.....interesting product. But I doubt if it would correct an engine mechanical problem. Might be a "Band-Aid" approach, covering the underlying problem.

Excessive valve train, or engine knock (if it is) if far different than spark knock do to low octane or poorly blended gasoline, imo.
well op said they already used engine treatment, and I suggested one that works........I will certainly see after next oil change and oil analysis.
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:09 PM
  #15  
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I haven't been on the forum in a while, but just learned a HARD lesson about the timing chain guides. My '07 was rattling at start up since the spring time, first once a week, then once or twice and eventually every time I started it. I knew it wasn't normal, but it started happening so often I thought maybe it WAS normal. It went away after a minute of driving, after all!

On October 16 the car went in the shop because the CEL came on and the error code was a bad camshaft position sensor. Turned out the sensor was fine, it was the rapidly degrading timing chain, guides and bent valves that were the problem!

The repair is nearly finished, but after nearly a month in the repair shop and $1600 to $2000 to fix the damn thing I encourage any owner to get it inspected AS SOON AS the noise starts. And I'd just paid the damn loan off on the 15th...
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:26 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Vaux
well op said they already used engine treatment, and I suggested one that works........I will certainly see after next oil change and oil analysis.
Been about 5 months, have you changed oil and had the oil analysis?

I'm interested in the results in comparison to other oil analysis' that you had prior to the use of this product.

I do know there is a company producing nano oil. Last I looked it was terribly expensive though.
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Old 11-06-2014, 05:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dhw3971
I haven't been on the forum in a while, but just learned a HARD lesson about the timing chain guides. My '07 was rattling at start up since the spring time, first once a week, then once or twice and eventually every time I started it. I knew it wasn't normal, but it started happening so often I thought maybe it WAS normal. It went away after a minute of driving, after all!

On October 16 the car went in the shop because the CEL came on and the error code was a bad camshaft position sensor. Turned out the sensor was fine, it was the rapidly degrading timing chain, guides and bent valves that were the problem!

The repair is nearly finished, but after nearly a month in the repair shop and $1600 to $2000 to fix the damn thing I encourage any owner to get it inspected AS SOON AS the noise starts. And I'd just paid the damn loan off on the 15th...
I don't think you needed to post this same copy/paste response in 3 different threads.
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Old 11-07-2014, 08:03 AM
  #18  
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Just spreading the word as far as I can. If someone doesn't want to keep their $2000 then they can skip my post.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:29 PM
  #19  
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Did you see post #13?

If there is slop in the chain at 200K it most likely is NOT the easy fix. A couple of mechanics I know swear that the guides are only good for 70K, I have not seen documentation, but I have seen the guides after 100K and it was not a pretty sight. They are made out of plastic (or some such polymer) and are intended to be rubbed by a piece of irregular steel for millions of miles a month, they wear out.

The "tensioner fix" is sometimes good, but not a substitute for actually looking at the problem.

Oh, and the camshaft SENSOR is very rarely the problem, it usually means a bad chain/guides/tensioner. The sensor is pretty much just an electromagnet with no physical contact and no moving parts, they can go bad, but mostly throwing parts at problems.
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