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Engine Revs at the touch of the pedal

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Old 12-03-2022 | 01:22 PM
  #11  
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Joined: 12-02-2022
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
I asked if they could do a battery load test today when i went tog et the codes for the engine. they asked to see my keys and started my car, watching and listening to how it started up and told me the car was starting up fine and i likely didnt need to worry about that. but i can always go back and press for a battery load test.
Old 12-03-2022 | 01:23 PM
  #12  
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From: Welland,Ont Canada
Advance Auto

DieHard Gold - Battery: T5 Group Size, 650 CCA, 810 CA, 90 Minute Reserve Capacity, Maximum Starting Power (Part No. 90/T5)
Old 12-03-2022 | 02:52 PM
  #13  
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That just reinforces what Oldblue said about don't trust the counter guy. Get the load test.
Old 12-03-2022 | 03:20 PM
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They must have a different breed of counter guys in MI. I have seen clowns that couldn't find the battery but you can show the Owner Manual to them (link in my sig before you say "I don't have one"). The battery lives under the spare tire. That black box with terminals on it under the hood is the main fuse box.
If the battery in your car is the original it is 6 years past due for replacement.
Old 12-03-2022 | 06:15 PM
  #15  
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From: Davison MI
Originally Posted by TaraP
I asked if they could do a battery load test today when i went tog et the codes for the engine. they asked to see my keys and started my car, watching and listening to how it started up and told me the car was starting up fine and i likely didnt need to worry about that. but i can always go back and press for a battery load test.
Idiots. This means it started this time but may not the next. How stupid.
LOAD TEST.
Old 12-03-2022 | 08:13 PM
  #16  
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The water in a battery can freeze if the battery is discharged, causing physical damage to battery, I imagine your winters in Michigan are pretty harsh. It bothers me that this guy at O'Reilly wasted your time, and sent you down the road without helping you. He either doesn't know anything, or was lazy. Or maybe their tester is broken and that's all he could do to diagnose the problem. But he should have told you if that were the case.
Old 12-03-2022 | 09:38 PM
  #17  
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Go to Advanced Auto , they’ve always been good to me when I’ve gone to one of their stores .
Old 12-04-2022 | 12:14 PM
  #18  
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Joined: 12-02-2022
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
Exclamation

Originally Posted by TaraP
UPDATE

Just got home, it doesn't seem to be great news. Here's the codes they got from checking the engine light:

P0700 - Transmission control module (it popped up twice)
P0757 - Shift Solenoid Valve 2 Performance Stuck On

The employee at O'Reilly told me I need to go to a Transmission Shop. And reccomended 2 for me. They don't open till Monday however. And one I called told me that they can look at it on Monday but any work needing to be done would likely need to be scheduled in a few weeks.

I'm going to try looking up these codes and see what it means and how bad a situation I'm in but any advice or explanation from others who know is also greatly appreciated
UPDATE (12/4/2022)
Went to Advance Auto to get a load test..they told me that my crank aps were a little low, 400 instead of 600. But that the battery was fine on everything else. They told me i could get a new battery since it looks like that eventually but it wouldn't solve the issue i have with the vehicle revving the engine after going faster than 35 mph, and told me the battery will be fine for a while longer so i should probably focus on the car's solenoid issue and that i should research the codes I've been given by the check engine codes.

Do transmission shops even do solenoid related issues..? Or would an Automotive shop be a little better..?

Old 12-04-2022 | 03:23 PM
  #19  
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The solenoids are in the transmission. I personally, don't trust any transmission shops. I would go to a local independent mechanic, check Craigslist, nextdoor etc.
Old 12-04-2022 | 06:42 PM
  #20  
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From: Davison MI
Originally Posted by TaraP
UPDATE (12/4/2022)
Went to Advance Auto to get a load test..they told me that my crank aps were a little low, 400 instead of 600. But that the battery was fine on everything else. They told me i could get a new battery since it looks like that eventually but it wouldn't solve the issue i have with the vehicle revving the engine after going faster than 35 mph, and told me the battery will be fine for a while longer so i should probably focus on the car's solenoid issue and that i should research the codes I've been given by the check engine codes.

Do transmission shops even do solenoid related issues..? Or would an Automotive shop be a little better..?
I asked you this...
Jerking? When you shift from R to D it hits hard?
When your revs go higher does the vehicle go faster. Is the tranny slipping?
Get the codes.

Can you answer the two questions?
Yes, we need the codes.


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