Engine temp under load
10-18-2015, 11:58 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-06-2015
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1
Engine temp under load
2010 Panel with 2.2 /Auto/ 130K miles. Runs at about 185 and when going uphill or under load on winding grade temp goes up to 205-210. Going down a grade it sometimes drops temp to 175 or so. Does it sound like the radiator may be partially clogged and not flowing freely or TStat is staying open or missing? Getting ready to replace all hoses and clamps. Would do radiator and cooling fan at same time if necessary. Any thoughts? Thanks
10-19-2015, 01:22 AM
#2
Deceased
Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
First off, 
aboard!
Honestly, the temperature ranges you're seeing wouldn't cause me any concern. My three HHR's that are in service run around 188°-192° on level ground at speeds ranging from 35-80 mph. Pulling a long grade like I-77 North towards Fancy Gap, Virginia. Which is a steep sucker, the temps will creep up to 196°-202° depending on the ambient temps and road speed.
Coasting down the other side, I'll see engine temps of 180°-185°, so you're in the normal range of HHR operating temperatures. The time to really get concerned is if you go over 217° while moving, or while stopped and the cooling fan fails to start.
An easy way to verify your fan function is to start your engine and push the A/C button, this starts the fan automatically in order to draw air through the condenser.
At five years of age, and at 130k, your HHR is due for a coolant change. DexCool should be changed every five years, and replace it with more DexCool, the sludging issues with it were dealt with fifteen years ago. So no need to switch to the "Green Stuff", as it requires extensive flushing of the system to remove every last drop of the OEM DexCool. Chemically, the "Orange Stuff" and the "Green Stuff" Do Not play well with each other.
Changing your hoses and clamps isn't exactly necessary, but it is proactive, and it shows you want to make your ride last.
Unless the thermostat is failing, I'm in the "let sleeping dogs lie" camp, your money would be better spent on a new serpentine drive belt, at 130k it's ready for replacement.
aboard!Honestly, the temperature ranges you're seeing wouldn't cause me any concern. My three HHR's that are in service run around 188°-192° on level ground at speeds ranging from 35-80 mph. Pulling a long grade like I-77 North towards Fancy Gap, Virginia. Which is a steep sucker, the temps will creep up to 196°-202° depending on the ambient temps and road speed.
Coasting down the other side, I'll see engine temps of 180°-185°, so you're in the normal range of HHR operating temperatures. The time to really get concerned is if you go over 217° while moving, or while stopped and the cooling fan fails to start.
An easy way to verify your fan function is to start your engine and push the A/C button, this starts the fan automatically in order to draw air through the condenser.
At five years of age, and at 130k, your HHR is due for a coolant change. DexCool should be changed every five years, and replace it with more DexCool, the sludging issues with it were dealt with fifteen years ago. So no need to switch to the "Green Stuff", as it requires extensive flushing of the system to remove every last drop of the OEM DexCool. Chemically, the "Orange Stuff" and the "Green Stuff" Do Not play well with each other.
Changing your hoses and clamps isn't exactly necessary, but it is proactive, and it shows you want to make your ride last.
Unless the thermostat is failing, I'm in the "let sleeping dogs lie" camp, your money would be better spent on a new serpentine drive belt, at 130k it's ready for replacement.
Last edited by 843de; 10-19-2015 at 10:16 AM. Reason: I cain't spell fer nothin....
10-20-2015, 09:29 AM
#7
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 37,609
I've never seen 217 on my gauges or 208 for that matter!
I just know that these Ecotecs are built around the correct spark plugs and the correct coolant and the correct GM AC Delco 180 degree thermostat
I just know that these Ecotecs are built around the correct spark plugs and the correct coolant and the correct GM AC Delco 180 degree thermostat
10-25-2015, 10:43 AM
#8
Join Date: 10-25-2015
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 9
First off, aboard!
Honestly, the temperature ranges you're seeing wouldn't cause me any concern. My three HHR's that are in service run around 188°-192° on level ground at speeds ranging from 35-80 mph. Pulling a long grade like I-77 North towards Fancy Gap, Virginia. Which is a steep sucker, the temps will creep up to 196°-202° depending on the ambient temps and road speed.
Coasting down the other side, I'll see engine temps of 180°-185°, so you're in the normal range of HHR operating temperatures. The time to really get concerned is if you go over 217° while moving, or while stopped and the cooling fan fails to start.
An easy way to verify your fan function is to start your engine and push the A/C button, this starts the fan automatically in order to draw air through the condenser.
At five years of age, and at 130k, your HHR is due for a coolant change. DexCool should be changed every five years, and replace it with more DexCool, the sludging issues with it were dealt with fifteen years ago. So no need to switch to the "Green Stuff", as it requires extensive flushing of the system to remove every last drop of the OEM DexCool. Chemically, the "Orange Stuff" and the "Green Stuff" Do Not play well with each other.
Changing your hoses and clamps isn't exactly necessary, but it is proactive, and it shows you want to make your ride last.
Unless the thermostat is failing, I'm in the "let sleeping dogs lie" camp, your money would be better spent on a new serpentine drive belt, at 130k it's ready for replacement.
aboard!Honestly, the temperature ranges you're seeing wouldn't cause me any concern. My three HHR's that are in service run around 188°-192° on level ground at speeds ranging from 35-80 mph. Pulling a long grade like I-77 North towards Fancy Gap, Virginia. Which is a steep sucker, the temps will creep up to 196°-202° depending on the ambient temps and road speed.
Coasting down the other side, I'll see engine temps of 180°-185°, so you're in the normal range of HHR operating temperatures. The time to really get concerned is if you go over 217° while moving, or while stopped and the cooling fan fails to start.
An easy way to verify your fan function is to start your engine and push the A/C button, this starts the fan automatically in order to draw air through the condenser.
At five years of age, and at 130k, your HHR is due for a coolant change. DexCool should be changed every five years, and replace it with more DexCool, the sludging issues with it were dealt with fifteen years ago. So no need to switch to the "Green Stuff", as it requires extensive flushing of the system to remove every last drop of the OEM DexCool. Chemically, the "Orange Stuff" and the "Green Stuff" Do Not play well with each other.
Changing your hoses and clamps isn't exactly necessary, but it is proactive, and it shows you want to make your ride last.
Unless the thermostat is failing, I'm in the "let sleeping dogs lie" camp, your money would be better spent on a new serpentine drive belt, at 130k it's ready for replacement.
Thank you for creating this forum! I just joined.
I was looking for explanations for an issue that has just occurred with my 2010 HHR (mileage ~ 83,000). When I started it last week, a DIC message came on that I had not seen before - coolant temp. I went on a short trip and saw the temp climbing rapidly to ~197o. I was alarmed, so I came home and asked a mechanic neighbor to check my coolant. He found the reservoir empty (I had assumed this would be checked during oil changes).
He filled it with the green stuff, but some orange stuff came to the top. I saw the comment that the two are not chemically compatible - how much trouble am I in? Do I need to get a complete flush and replace with Dex-cool? If so, is it safe to drive now?
I'm still getting the DIC coolant temp readout; and on a trip around town, the temp varied from 180-190. What else would you suggest that I have checked?
Thanks so much!
10-25-2015, 11:05 AM
#9
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
Welcome.
Yeah, if it was me I'd get it flushed and refilled with Dexcool as soon as convenient. The stuff they added, if not compatible, can cause problems (jells up, etc.) - keep an eye on the temp gauge in the meanwhile.
If you are till getting the temperature readout, that may indicate that there is an air bubble in the system, or not enough was added last time. But if the DIC readout is in the normal range you should be ok for short drives. Check the level in the plastic tank under the hood - the full mark is really hard to see, but is only about 3" or so from the bottom of the tank. Your neighbour may not have added enough to refill the low level in the radiator. Let us know how it checks out.
Yeah, if it was me I'd get it flushed and refilled with Dexcool as soon as convenient. The stuff they added, if not compatible, can cause problems (jells up, etc.) - keep an eye on the temp gauge in the meanwhile.
If you are till getting the temperature readout, that may indicate that there is an air bubble in the system, or not enough was added last time. But if the DIC readout is in the normal range you should be ok for short drives. Check the level in the plastic tank under the hood - the full mark is really hard to see, but is only about 3" or so from the bottom of the tank. Your neighbour may not have added enough to refill the low level in the radiator. Let us know how it checks out.