But still not great for electronics

 

Yes, there are better products for electronics. Wd40 leaves a sticky residue.

 

The water part, my bad, it’s a water displacement product, that took 40 attempts to get the formula right!

 

What does the scan tool show at throttle tip? You are over thinking this.

 

Here's the video I made of what's happening.

I've got another (used) genuine GM throttle body coming tomorrow morning to try out and totally rule out it being a throttle body issue.
Also the clutch on the A/C compressor wont engage, even when I use the Xtool D8 to actuate the solenoid.
I've checked the wiring and its good and all connected.

 

Inspect the harness and repair any necessary wires and secure the harness away from the bracket to prevent harness from grounding on the bracket.
There is another place, not in the two posts, at least on the '06 2.4, it's a bracket used in line assembly, on the back side of the rear cam cover.

 

And there is a chafing potential where the loom to the TB goes by the purge valve bracket. But then you would get a seemingly irrelevant code.

 

UPDATE: REVS FIXES.
Can't believe it. It was the throttle body.
Put a used, genuine on and it revs well, but is giving me two codes:
P2119 (Throttle closed position performance)
P0121 (Throttle Position Sensor 1 Performance)

This is after trying a brand new after market one where it did EXACTLY the same high revving as the original throttle body!

 

Connector or broken wire that got fixed when manipulating. Parts book may think all HHRs have the same TB.
There is an AC diode in the fuse box. Did you check for voltage to the compressor?
Are the tail lights LEDs? The flash is fast, usually means a blown bulb or low impedance. A LED without a resistor will look like a short to voltage to the computer.
If the blower run only when the switch is on HIGH the resistor pack must have shorted , the only connection is in the switch. Maybe somebody tried diagnosing without benefit of a schematic? It is not wired the way most people think.

 

UPDATE:
A/C - The A/c was out of gas, as the high and low fill points were leaking (for no reason).
Thats all fixed.
Tail lights- The scan tool says:
B3950 and B3951 (Left/Right) "Turn signal short to battery or open".
As mentioned in the video, the bulbs are fine and are regular filament bulbs. Both are working. I researched and someone said it can be a "capacitor issue"?
Blower: The a/c compressor comes on or off when the fan is turned on (regardless of whether the a/c button is lit or off).
I suspect a fan switch module issue. I pulled it out and checked for short cct's but no burnt smells. Cleaned it all with spray and WD-40'd it. It still doesnt operate correctly as it should, as per the video.
Rearview mirror lights not working- not sure why they stopped working. Every fuse and relay is fine.
I cant turn them on via my scan tool, but I can turn on the main dome light this way and the regular way too.
Oil leak - seems to be an oil leak from behind the block up high somewhere. Not exactly sure where.
I had to remove the oil cooler from this one and swap it out for the original motors version. I added extra silicone to the factory o-ring when I bolted it back on.
I'll check this as there's nothing else it could leaking from back there, correct?