front end clunk
#81
My 07 had this problem the day I bought it. Changed sway bar end links, but that wasnt it. Changed the sway bar bushings and presto, noise gone. It a little time consuming but if you have some tools and basic knowledge of cars it is easy to do. Oh and I learned how to change it on this site. So big shout out to the HHR.net family. Always helpful and friendly.
#82
I have the same clunking problem. My cousin, who is a Chevy mechanic, says he has replaced many sway bar stabilizer links because of noise. I replaced my factory links with the Moog Sway Bar Link Kit, which includes lock nuts and grease fittings for the ball joints (the OEM links don't have grease fittings). Anyway, I still have the same clunk on certain bumps and irregularities. According to my cousin, the upper part of the struts assembly can cause this type of noise also. I'm not going there. I'm not about to replace the struts with 37K on the odometer. I'll either live with the noise, or find another non GM car. I'm not enthused about replacing the sway bar bushings either. Not unless I know for sure that this would cure the noise. It's strange, but the outdoor temperature seems to change the noise level. Hotter weather, more clunking.
#83
If he is a Chevy mechanic, then he should have access to TSBs like this one.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ghlight=noises
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ghlight=noises
#84
I have the same clunking problem. My cousin, who is a Chevy mechanic, says he has replaced many sway bar stabilizer links because of noise. I replaced my factory links with the Moog Sway Bar Link Kit, which includes lock nuts and grease fittings for the ball joints (the OEM links don't have grease fittings). Anyway, I still have the same clunk on certain bumps and irregularities. According to my cousin, the upper part of the struts assembly can cause this type of noise also. I'm not going there. I'm not about to replace the struts with 37K on the odometer. I'll either live with the noise, or find another non GM car. I'm not enthused about replacing the sway bar bushings either. Not unless I know for sure that this would cure the noise. It's strange, but the outdoor temperature seems to change the noise level. Hotter weather, more clunking.
they are known to make some clunking noise too
#85
I have a 2007 HHR. My cousin is the original owner, after replacing sway bar links, front struts, and sway bar bushings several times she gave in and purchased a new vehicle leaving this to me. I wanted to tackle the clunk problem as it is persistent and put the vehicle on the hoist, took the wheels off and gave it a good shake down. Sway bar links are new, sway bar bushings are new, front struts are new. While shaking it down I fount that the rear bushings on the control arms are destroyed. Purchased two new lower control arm assemblies from NAPA and installed them. 90% percent of the clunk has been resolved. The vehicle rides much better and handles great. Still a clunk haunts the vehicle. I have worked on allot of cars as I was a technician in a dealer for several years. I have read through this thread, and have not seen anything here I haven't thought to check already. Any real answers? All the front end parts on this are new, from NAPA which in my opinion is one of the best part stores around. (pertaining to the quality of their parts and service). Any thoughts?
#86
clunking
i wonder if the cushions on top of the springs on the struts were replaced, having done a few strut replacements, i know what a hassle they are, maybe they got tossed or re-used. call it a hunch,, mine are still clunking, but, when i can afford it i will probably purchase a pair of 'ready to install' quick struts i think they're called, all together so i dont have to compress springs and all that jazz.
#87
I have a 2007 HHR. My cousin is the original owner, after replacing sway bar links, front struts, and sway bar bushings several times she gave in and purchased a new vehicle leaving this to me. I wanted to tackle the clunk problem as it is persistent and put the vehicle on the hoist, took the wheels off and gave it a good shake down. Sway bar links are new, sway bar bushings are new, front struts are new. While shaking it down I fount that the rear bushings on the control arms are destroyed. Purchased two new lower control arm assemblies from NAPA and installed them. 90% percent of the clunk has been resolved. The vehicle rides much better and handles great. Still a clunk haunts the vehicle. I have worked on allot of cars as I was a technician in a dealer for several years. I have read through this thread, and have not seen anything here I haven't thought to check already. Any real answers? All the front end parts on this are new, from NAPA which in my opinion is one of the best part stores around. (pertaining to the quality of their parts and service). Any thoughts?
I work as a delivery driver for NAPA. Their quality ain't so great.
#88
I respect your opinion on NAPA's parts as everyone has a right to make their own choices. I personally have worked on 1000's of vehicles all makes and models "I'm an auto body technician and I deal mainly with heavy suspension and frame repairs". For me NAPA has the greatest quality of parts. Not to mention all of their sales people (That I know, and have known for the past 20 years) are ASE certified and have experienced knowledge of parts and their functions. I have nothing against any other part stores or providers because they all have something to offer. But again, I have had the absolute best luck with NAPA parts. I personally have never had an issue with any of their parts suspension or any others. But with all that being said. The noise is still there, the only thing I can think is the steering shaft. I have never ran into this problem before so any information or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
#89
None of the sales people in my 3 store franchise are ASE. Every month we load a full size pickup truck with the warranty parts from 1 store.
As the delivery guy I have to politely listen to the mechanics complaining. Most won't use the alternators, starters or A/C compressors. Last week I dealt with a ball joint that flopped around out of the box, an A/C compressor that was mislabelled, 2 alternators that did not work, 2 brake master cylinders that leaked, 4 bad calipers among other things.
Many of the big truck parts are resold from other retailers, Kenworth, Detroit Diesel etc. We regularly send a driver to the big truck warehouses for parts. Last week I delivered and then returned an oil pan gasket from Detroit Diesel, NAPA paid $189, charged the customer $240, the customer found it online from a warehouse for $124.
NAPA is a warehouse distribution network, not a brand or a store.
I am NOT slamming NAPA!!! Just saying they are not necessarily better than the rest, and sometimes worse because they buy from the lowest bidder mostly (just like everybody else).
I do know that my employee price on many parts is higher than I can get the identical part for online.
But the point of the post was to aim you at the TSB that addresses just about any rattle, clunk, shake or noise, and how to diagnose. (the link in post #83, that was to answer your question "Any thoughts?")
As the delivery guy I have to politely listen to the mechanics complaining. Most won't use the alternators, starters or A/C compressors. Last week I dealt with a ball joint that flopped around out of the box, an A/C compressor that was mislabelled, 2 alternators that did not work, 2 brake master cylinders that leaked, 4 bad calipers among other things.
Many of the big truck parts are resold from other retailers, Kenworth, Detroit Diesel etc. We regularly send a driver to the big truck warehouses for parts. Last week I delivered and then returned an oil pan gasket from Detroit Diesel, NAPA paid $189, charged the customer $240, the customer found it online from a warehouse for $124.
NAPA is a warehouse distribution network, not a brand or a store.
I am NOT slamming NAPA!!! Just saying they are not necessarily better than the rest, and sometimes worse because they buy from the lowest bidder mostly (just like everybody else).
I do know that my employee price on many parts is higher than I can get the identical part for online.
But the point of the post was to aim you at the TSB that addresses just about any rattle, clunk, shake or noise, and how to diagnose. (the link in post #83, that was to answer your question "Any thoughts?")