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Front End Clunk (another post)

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Old 10-27-2018 | 11:47 PM
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hwmonkey's Avatar
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From: Flagler County, FL
Question Front End Clunk (another post)

I have read posts here about the front end clunk. I am wondering if mine is the same clunk. My clunk just started. It makes its noise when you brake (more than a gentle brake) and when you first hit the throttle after braking. Sometimes it does it while turning. It has been a few hundred miles that it has been making noise. The noise is on the right side of center of the vehicle. It is a 2010 2.4 automatic.

You might recall that I just did the solenoids in my tranny. So when the clunk appeared, I assumed I left something loose. I spend a bunch of time looking. I rocked the wheels with the vehicle in the air. On the ground, I had another person wobble the steering wheel while I looked at the front end. I looked at the sway bar linkage (did not bounce the vehicle) and did not see anything. I had a Ford Expedition that made a sound nearly identical and it was the sway bar linkage -- on that vehicle I could see it move.

I focused on the cv axle. It seemed to make some noise when I pushed it up or down. So tonight, I pulled it out. The only noise I can get the CV axle to make (after pulling it) is from the little link extension moving. I have not figured out how to take the link extension off. However, I am now doubting that the cv is the culprit of the clunk.

Ideas or opinions welcome!! Thanks in advance.
Old 10-28-2018 | 09:18 AM
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After reading the posts here about the front end clunk, have you made a list of the things you need to check?

Looking at the front end, or the sway bar links won't do a thing to determine if they are at fault - you actually need to lay hands on them and give them a proper physical test. Most every thread about the front end noise gives info on how to properly test the components of the more difficult things to check.

If it typically does it when braking or applying throttle, the first thing I would check would be the rear lower control arm bushings - they are a well known failure point. and with your mileage they definitely need to be checked.
The sway bar bushings typically are most noticeable over bumps at slower speeds - speed bumps help in the diagnosis.
Old 10-28-2018 | 09:22 AM
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LCAs. Car parked, hands on top of front tire ,push the tire backward. Note if the body moves, it should move as much as the tire does.

The link in my sig will help diagnose.
Old 10-28-2018 | 09:35 AM
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And check the upper front engine mount. That was the issue for mine .
Old 10-28-2018 | 03:25 PM
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Thanks for the thoughts.
  • Upper engine mount: replaced that nearly 20 months ago. Checked it and it is tight.
  • Lower control arm bushing: I had the vehicle rocked front to back vigorously while watching (and feeling) the LCA. I felt/saw nothing. One bushing looks pretty shot -- the one on the driver's side (and the noise is on the passenger side).
  • I had someone bounce the vehicle harshly while feeling the sway bar and the linkage. Felt/saw nothing.
With the cost of some of these parts vs the time, I think I am going to start throwing parts at it--sway bar bushings, sway bar links, and lower control arms. Even if they are not causing the problem, they are all worn enough to warrant replacement and the total cost is so much less than a single car payment that it makes sense. In fact, it might be about the cost of a single tow home from my work (64 miles away).

Will add a post about the results after it is finished.
Old 10-28-2018 | 03:39 PM
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With that mileage it sounds like a wise financial choice.
Preventative care is usually a good choice. Soft parts don't last forever.
Old 10-28-2018 | 06:00 PM
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I guess clicking on a link to save your money is too much. Throwing parts can be fun.
Old 10-28-2018 | 06:09 PM
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What moves when you go straight forward or straight backward from a stop? LCA bushings, ball joints, strut mounts, bearings.

Old 10-28-2018 | 08:07 PM
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Maybe I didn’t explain. I did the shove test as described and did not see abnormal movement. Maybe because the sound has only been around for one week and it is not very bad yet. But the visible sign of wear exists, and given the known issues and 166k miles, it made sense to just spend $175 for sway bar bushings & links, and control arms (that include LCA bushings and ball joints), given that they haven’t been replaced, and I can eliminate many of the possible causes. IMO, keeping a car on the road for a lot of mile is far cheaper than a car payment. Heck, the solenoid replacement was a gamble compared to a complete rebuild but it saved $2000+, and the part tested bad once in there.

Maybe i I shouldn’t have bothered to ask this question given that it seems to have upset a couple people. I was thinking that maybe someone would have an idea based on the recent drop of the subframe and a possible oversight.
Old 10-28-2018 | 08:48 PM
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Didn't upset anyone, I just feel slighted when I go to the trouble to help someone and they don't even look at the links. Makes me think I care more than you.

If you are throwing parts I would include struts and shock. Yours are probably worn out 100,000 miles ago. They are gas shocks, they don't always leak fluid.



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