Has anybody replaced the front wheel bearings/hub assembly? I have ordered the parts. Will I need any special tools, like wheel puller etc.? Mine is a 2008 LT automatic no ABS. Does not seem to be covered in the Service manual I have.
Wouldn't you know they would start roaring at 101,000!!!

 

Had to do mine at 70k or so because the ABS sensors were full of rust and dirt and inop (2006 LT), No special tools IIRC other than big socket for the axle nut.

GL, Eric

 

Changed a couple out on some Cobalts. Other than the socket for the axle nut, you won't need anything special

 

I found out that it's a 30mm socket. Do NOT remove the brakes first, as you will need the brake disc and caliper to hold the hub with a drift or large screwdriver,(thru the caliper into the disc vents) to remove the big nut.
So far everything is easier than expected, but waiting for the hub/bearing to be delivered ($205 list, $113 Amazon.com each side).
Biggest prob so far has been trial and error fitting the 30mm socket, could not find a listing anywhere!! It looked like the same size as the oil filter (32mm) and both local Autozone & Advance were slim pickens (1 32mm in the wrong place on rack),,,, but NO should have got 30mm (lots of them). They do have specific sockets for axle nuts, deep well and rounded corners.

Now I am trying to decide if I should just replace the axles while I am in there. Oddly enuf they seem to be cheaper than the hubs! And really no extra work involved.

 

Only other thing you might need is a BFH (that's Big F@##$%^^ Hammer)

Sometimes the bearing doesn't like to come off - hence beating it with the BFH. Also, put a very light coat of never-seez on the back of the new one before you put it on, makes it easier to remove if you have to do it again in the future.

 

yeah, and bandaids too!

 

I decided against the axle procedure. Finished the hub/bearing job with new rotors & pads in about 2 hours. I got the hubs through Amazon.com for $113 ea. It seems like a new car now, I guess the gradual changes did not register with me, I just wish the alignment guy(s) that's more than one had bothered to check them while they were under warantee. It is amazing how many little things I thought were normal Quirks are now gone!
I am now firmly convinced that "warped rotors" are really bearings and that there does not seem to be a diagnostic procedure until they ROAR and clunk. Also gone is the small clunking noise from the suspension when I hit bumps, oddly enough in the front and rear! I swear it feels like I changed the struts & shocks.

 

These hubs are not the greatest and nearly all cars use the same or similar set up Even trucks.

They have less rolling resistance and get a little better mileage at the expense of durability compared to the old bearings.

Yes it is hubs that cause most of the brake issues. A little play will make the rotors wobble and wear uneven. Eveyone replaces the rotors thinking they are warped when it is really uneven wear of the worn bearings. Many people today think a little play is good like in the old days and today any play is nearly too much. I know some want to argue the warped issue but the experts point out what the issue is.

I know seldom did anyone complain till the MFG went to this style hub. Before that it was mostly brake material imbedded into the rotor that got the warped blame.

I hope the replacment work out. It is a crap shoot to get a good cheap bearing. Often the more expensive ones fail early too. I have seen many a new one fail in low mileage.

 

The cheap ones are Timpken, so maybe....
I am almost positive all of my ride/handling complaints are due to the bearings, at least since replacing struts & shocks!

I still cannot figure what is the quantitative test for this type of bearing. The ones I removed do not seem to have play, and seem to bee almost as tight as the new "out of box" ones. There does not seem to be an end play measurement, just wait till people look at you on the highway because they ROAR. I guess I am dating myself to the rear wheel drive era.

 

Well with what I have read .001-.002 play is too much for most vehicles there really should be little to no movment by feel.

I have been told if you can feel it move they really need replaced? Either way I have been told it takes little for them to really be out.

Most people let them go till they make noise or the ABS light comes on. The car will run with the play but the looseness and uneven wear on the rotors are results of the extra play.

I have been told most of these inside are ball bearing so they have much less surface area than the rollers. This may be why there is so much more wear or damage with this type. But it gets better mileage.

So indirectly with the rasing of the Cafe rating this is something else we can pin on the goverment.