The post is at the end of this thread:

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...bearing-35260/

 

Thanks Blue SS, I did a search and the size of the SS axle nut was all over the place, but that is the 2nd place I saw 36mm, AND it said deep well! I almost missed that... If I had bought a 36mm socket and needed a 36mm deep well, I really would have been ticked off.

I did see a consensus on the torque for the axle nut at 155 ft/lbs, and the majority of the caliper bolts came in at 85 ft/lbs.

Are there any techs out there that have the torque specs for the SS, otherwise I am going to use the above...

 

The above you have is correct.

This came from the repair manual:
Wheel Drive Shaft Nut 210 N.m 155 lb ft

 

Ok, guys, I replaced one of the whell hub/bearing assemblies about a year ago with the cheepies from eBay. It has been loud as H$LL since replacing. I THOUGHT it might "break in" and get a bit quitterover time, but no.
I am not going to put the other side in and make it worse.... Instead, I am going to order another set and hope for better quality.
Has anyone tried:
WJB Automotive
MEVOTECH
DURA International

These are the less expensive ones available at Rock Auto before you get into the Raybestoes or Timkins.

 

Never tried 'em, never heard of of them actually.

There's an old axiom, "You Get What You Pay For", and considering the "fun" of changing hubs out, spend the extra cash and go with a known quantity

Timken, Raybestos, Duralast, Moog, etc.

And yes I know that someone will pop up with the old "they're all out of the same Chinese factory" line, but based on personal experience with Timken hubs and Raybestos hubs, they're good quality and they last.

My '06 just got a Moog hub installed at 401,000 miles, that replaced a Timken hub that pooped out after 129,000 miles, so well see how well the Moog hub is doing at 530,000 miles.

 

When I got mine the last time I ordered the least expensive ones I could find on eBay.

I was surprised when they got here and the box said Timken on it. They have been in since shortly after I had the engine replaced so a tad over 50,000 miles ago. They are still quiet.

The pair I put in before that, from AutoZone lasted around 30,000. We got the car with a bit over 150,000 miles on it. I'm pretty sure the ones I replaced first were probably the originals. I'm hoping these Timken's will last at least that long.

 

I just found out that Timken has 2 plants.. One in the US and one in China. The parts that come from China are much less expensive, and much less reliable. I am just not sure how you tell which parts you are getting when ordering on-line.

 

There are a few ways to test the bearing before it starts roaring. First you want to lift the car and grab the top and bottom of the tire and try moving it in and out same as you would to test tie rods this will show any play in bearing. Second if it’s tight after the first test grab the coil spring with one hand and spin the wheel as fast as you can with your other hand and if you feel any vibration coming from the coil spring the bearing is going out. You can compare sides to see the difference, hopes this helps.

 

OR, you can do it by the book; measuring the end play/runout the tolerance is 0.132 mm/0.005 in. If you can perceive it without precision tools they are bad.