I have been on these threads hundreds of times, and appreciate all the information I have been able to obtain, and fix many issues with my 2006 Chevy HHR LT (2.4).

With my latest issue, I see some discuss the use of a camber kit, after lowering an HHR. In my case, all I did was install a new set of complete lower control arms, with all the new bushings and ball joints installed. No lowering of any kind.

I did not get an alignment, as I figured I did not do anything that would change the toe in/out. (My bad)

After a short two weeks, I completely wiped out a newer set of front tires, as they apparently were riding on the inside edge on both sides. When I realized what happened, I stepped back 20-30 feet, and looked at my front end. Both front wheels are noticeably tilted in at the top. My tires on that inside edge were down to the steel belts. (I should have realized the screaming sound the tires made on slight curves meant something:)...

Now when I took it for an alignment, I was told a strut was blown as well. I took it home, ordered 2 new struts, and installed them today. I booked another alignment for tomorrow, before reading a thread on here pointing out the alignment will only adjust toe. Which I am sure needs to be done anyway, but will not correct this camber issue that is clearly visible.

My question is (sorry for the long lead up), is should I need a camber kit when not lowering the car, but simply replacing control arms, and now full struts with springs?

Thanks in advance. Again, I know you folks will have answers. Joe

PS, I use my HHR for business. Mostly all highway. But 150k miles on it, only changed oil, plugs, brakes, and tires in the past. Still runs like a top, and looks as new as the day I brought it home. Pics to follow.

 

You or a previous owner probably had an alignment done, and the bad bushings were not noticed. So, when you replaced the control arms that alignment was thrown out.

Generally speaking toe out will cause inner edge wear. The only way camber could be different now is from frame damage, or possibly incorrect installation of the control arms or wrong control arms.

Out of curiosity, did you use the cast or the pressed control arms? Just looking for a data point.

 

Hello Don, many posts from you have been a big help.

I owned the car since day one. Brand new off the floor. No accidents, and no previous alignments.

I ordered what was on the vehicle. The cast aluminum control arms. I changed these because only the rear bushings were shot (the large round ones that bolt to frame with one big@ss bolt).

 

I was trying to find out if maybe the pressed arms were different geometry.

Maybe your struts have been blown for longer than you think? Are you still slapping your forehead about not doing everything at one time?

Other possibilities that comes to mind :1.) Hubs, they will allow a cant (rear hubs to if you rotate regularly) , 2.) Did you go the 180degrees after 89 ft/lbs on the big bolt? That's about all I got.

 

I am slapping my head about the whole thing, Yes.

I know you do not know me, but I am a car nut. Owned a car customizing shop for 15 years. Changing these lower control arms was cake. Not much I could screw up. You know how they go in. I can't come up with a way that they would be installed wrong, causing the bottom to kick to the outside.... on both, identically.

I was thinking wrong control arms, and emailed the supplier to ask if they have had any other complaints. I'm thinking the ball joint riveted too far to the outside end of the arm (??). Other than that, I'm stumped.

These are the arms I purchased.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190826516948...84.m1497.l2649

 

One point of interest, probably of no significance is I have noticed that before and after alignment printouts show a camber change when only the toe was adjusted.

The installation problems I thinking were that 180 degree after 89 ft/lb, the ball joints getting torqued with the extra 30 degrees(if my memory...) , the front mounts getting torqued down right. I know it's simple, but there just isn't much that could change the camber.

Maybe the new struts/strut bearings corrected the geometry? Rack & pinion/tie rod ends?

The camber is controlled by rigid legs in a triangle, unless the struts aren't doing their job, only the angles (frame mount & ball joint) change. And Euclid made a law for that, or was that Pythagorus?.
I guess collapsed struts could affect camber.
Oops, starting to ramble.

 

I agree not much should change the camber. And I am thinking maybe the camber I think looks too negative, is close to normal? , and an alignment will correct my burning up tires issue.... I don't know. I am stumped, like I said. But they look the same today, with the new struts/springs, as they did before I changed them, and after the new lower control arms. I never took note of how they looked prior to the control arms...

When you look look at your own front wheels, is there a noticeable tilt inward at the top? Maybe I am thinking this is a problem when it is close to normal?

Here is the shot of my tires from last week, when I finally realized I had an issue.

 

My 2006 2lt had the same problem at it alighnent they ordred from Napa 2 smaller bolts $40.00 for the bolts solved the problem.

 

Hello Jay, two smaller bolts for the knuckle to strut mounting holes?

 

I am reading more and more about these kits. Not all say for use after lowering vehicle.

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/che...alignment-kit/