2007 hhr ls automatic 2.2l

REPLACED: thermostat,coolant hose cap,fan assy,ECT sensor,heater core bypass and clean dexcool coolent and yes I burped it.

its still over heating after driving for 15 mins... idles fine NO check engine lights or pending codes... i'm lost.

used to run 173-186 max
RUNS BETWEEN 198 AND 218+ (I dont wanna find out the end point) Idles at 187 then drops 185/183 if i give it gas and let off.

heres an obdII of it anything look wrong?

 

Your numbers don't look that bad. Did you replace the thermostat with a 180 deg. Stat?

 

yes

 

keep in mind this is at Idle when it acts ok.

 

Does the fan(s) come on as it "overheats"?

Secondly, does the fan come on as soon as the A/C is turned on?

 

A bit more background on Brandon's overheating issue, the company he works for is going to be supplying our Featured HHR prize packages through their NC regional offices. And I'm working on getting him a Gift Card in the approximate amount of what the average Goody Box is worth. Which is $100+/-, and failing my contact getting back to me by Monday morning, I'm just going to buy Brandon a gift card courtesy of my wallet and ChevyHHR.net.

A little background on his overheating issue from when it started, and our PM's back and forth over it.

From October the 9th..."The heater core popped flooding my mint condition carpets, the radiator fan snaped blades off, the radiator may also be damaged as I stepped on it last night I heard what sounded like a blow off valve.... but my car isn't a turbo.

The 180° thermo quickly read 232°F, so I pulled off waited 30 mins drove it a bit closer to home it hit 200, so I pulled of again then finally got it home. But the cars only got 103k on it and I have dumped near 6K into repairs in the last 2 years. I'm seriously thinking about saving to do a supercharged LS-1 Corvette engine rwd swap now if i would have done that to start with I'd be aleast the fastest HHR out there and it wouldnt cost me much more then that to have it all done for me."

We've PM'd back and forth over this issue, and keep in mind Lucky & whopper that I've got more of the "back story" as they say in the movies.

Your calls on a thermostat are right on in a situation where there aren't so many extenuating circumstances, like a blown heater core and the engine getting up into the "Death Zone" of 232°.

Even though Brandon has done everything in a logical order, I hate to say it, but the near instant overtemp condition is setting off my "Cracked Head/Blown Head Gasket" alarm bells like mad.

Honestly the WiFi here in Halifax, Nova Scotia kind of sucks tonight and on my end the Site is running like it's stuck in molasses. But I'm pretty sure he's used a testing kit for Products of Combustion in the coolant, but probaby the next logical steps are a compression test and a leakdown test.

So Mr. Senior Moderator and Mr. Technical Moderator, based on the additional info, any ideas that I've missed, and yes I did consider the water pump and coolant crossover pipe too.

 

the fan turns on as soon as I hit the A/C but they have not came on aside from that. how ever when I do hit the A/C the fans will stay running after I shut The A/c Off

 

I went looking for the specs on the temp at which the fan(s) should kick on, and I found this bit of info dating back to 2011 - it seems to be reliable info:


Parameters for cooling fan on/off

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The engine cooling fan system consists of one cooling fan and one relay. The relay is powered by the battery positive voltage circuit and controlled by a switched ground from the engine control module (ECM).

During operation, the ECM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan relay through the cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the cooling fan fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the cooling fan. The cooling fan motor is grounded through its own ground circuit.

The ECM commands the fan on under the following conditions:

• Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106°C (223°F).

• A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1302 kPa (189 psi).

• A/C is requested and vehicle speed is below 100 km/h (62 mph) with A/C pressure above 1413 kPa (205 psi).

• AF23-5 Transmission fluid temperature exceeds 130°C (266°F).

• VT25-E Transmission fluid temperature exceeds 140°C (284°F).

• When the engine coolant temperature exceeds 125°C (257°F) at key off, the fan will run for up to 108 seconds.

The ECM commands the fan off under the following conditions:

• Engine coolant temperature drops below approximately 125°C (257°F).

• Throttle position is greater than 95 percent.

• Vehicle speed exceeds 113 km/h (70 mph)

 

I think the next step would be check for combustion gases in the cooling system with a block tester.

Auto zone sells them and they also rent them.

 

Rented one but if you remember our coolant system isn't open radiator there's not enough of a gap to run the test it will just suck coolant up no gasses (I tried)