then that leaves drive it, refuel and Sta-Bil.

 

I tried to get a 1/4 inch hose down the filler to reclaim my gas before I traded it in. I could not get the tube down the filler.

Actually an emptied gas tank is hugely more dangerous than a full one. Throw a lit match in a puddle of gas, then throw one into a bucket that used to have gas in it. You'll see.

 

I'm in favor of just filling the tank and adding sta-bil. (Should be just fine) If your really dead set on draining the tank the best way is to remove the filler tube from the tank and use a crank transfer pump with a hose to remove the fuel.

You have to remove the filler tube at the tank because there is a rollover valve in the tube.
The rollover valve Looks like a Ping pong ball that will close off the fill tube in the event of a rollover.
The rollover valve make it very difficult to get a hose into the tank and if you do it sometimes won't let you pull the hose back out.

 

i just figured the gas was going bad because now Im getting a ticking sound, Im not sure if its lifters or the fuel injectors...i guess Ill just drive it until its below a 1/4 tank (300 trips around the neighborhood should do it)then change the oil and hope for the best after people get their tax refunds..thanks for the advise.

 

Bad gas does not cause ticking. It causes missing.

 

Hey beachbummm, what do you base that signature line on? A 2011 HHR has a safety rating of 8.1 and to be fair I used a 2011 Kia Soul to compare at 9.3 (the 2014 is 10.0) according to US News. Kias are consistently shown as among the safest vehicles in their corresponding price range. My brother in law has a 2012 Soul and we're considering a Rio to replace the Acura. Just curious where that comes from.

 

When I was working with GM's Fuel Systems guys, this was called "an extreme thermal event".

Depending on how long, and the storage conditions, there may not be a need to do anything, but Sta-bil (or similar) would be my choice if storage is over about 4 months or higher temperatures were encountered. Heat tends to vaporize the more volatile portions of the gas, leading to starting issues upon attempting to "resurrect" the vehicle. I have had no problems with cold weather storage up to 6 months around here, except for batteries...

 

In a similar position, needing to drain my tank. Was sitting for three years. Full tank. Manual pump had no results... is that due to the valve in the filler neck? How can I drain this?

 

I think there is an anti theft device in the filler. You can disconnect the filler from the tank, it's just a short section of rubber with 2 hose clamps.

 

You are 100% correct.... I tried a long tube and got nowhere..... So I tried an old heavy duty extension cord with the end missing.... and got... nowhere... I suspected that there was some kind of filter/screen inline and had read something like that before for whatever reason.... So... I already had the car backed up on ramps to find the "gas smell"... : Keep in mind this is a 2007 HHR has had the check engine light on (449?) forever and I did replace the vapor purge valve and the old one was as described.... plugged with fine particles of crap.... But, that did no good and we have driven this car 100,000 miles with the check engine light on.... I think I got part of a sun tan with it on.... You gotta look at the bright side of it....

So, this time, still smelling gas, I didn't want this inside my garage all night so I drove it out to the side of the driveway.... and put it back up on ramps and then started "feeling" for some gas..... I found none around the filler neck, althought that neck is awful rusty.... and I found no leak by the back of the tank by the purge valve..... I felt on top and all around the sides noting that I was really feeling a heat shied of some kind but it was all good.... Then I looked ahead... on the driver's side, just in front of the back wheel..... drip, drip, drip.... Now, I had 3/4 of a tank of gas and at the price of gas these days, I could afford to get most of it, so I pulled the back clamp on the eight inch filler hose.... and then found out what you always knew.... gas line "rubber" hose is built tougher..... and doesn't like to bend much especially after 14 years in Minnesota.... but I won.... got the hose disconnected on the filler end... added an extension to my siphon pump assembly, shoved it in and there you have it... all the way... and then started draining this into three two gallon tanks.... running like hell after one was filled and put the gas in my lawn mowers and then my truck.... I did the math and sure enough, when the HHR tank should be dry, the siphon stopped working, the drip stopped dripping, I turned on the ignition long enough to see it was less than an 1/8 of a tank with the rear end still up on ramps.... I could live with that... so now.... we have some thinking to do...

2007 HHR in decent enough shape bodywise... I take care of my stuff.... but... the transmission is starting to feel... well.... wrong.... and the starter drive wants to stay engaged too long.... It has 176,000 miles on it.... but I did all the oil changes regularly..... and the engine starts flawlessly..... and this car has never let us down.... great A/C... great heater.... so....

I am NOT going to do the repairs on this one... I'm old... I paid my dues.... but have found a young mechanic that charges a bit too much perhaps.... but he is reliable and does good work....If I take it to him and tell him the facts, do I dare to ask him to simply repair the line with a "patch" like we did in the old days? or is that against the rules politcally? Does the entire fuel line have to be repaired? Is there only one line or is there a return line too? Does all this begin on the top of the gas tank? In other words, is labor cost going to kill me?

This may be a bridge too far and it may be time to just call it a day..... and call the salvage yard.... I would have to talk to my wife about this..... unless somebody else wants to? She has bonded with this car...

By the way... it also had two exhaust leaks... nothing serious and it would definitely make it through the winter..... and of course, the muiffler has a small hole in the bottom that allow exhaust to come out there with the fuzzy sound and I also just found a small hole in the top of one pipe as well... more fuzzy sound.. I can live with fuzzy sounds.... and of course, it was a welded system so you probably can't just replace a pipe and the muffler.... Is there a reason cars cost so much and yet they don't put stainless steel pipes and muffflers on them? and stainless steel brake and gas lines?

OK... babbled and rambled.... Got any sage advice for me? I guess it depends on what my young mechanic says.... Do I spend another $1000 on it?

Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.......

Dennis