I'm with you... throwing parts at a problem that's not clearly understood often results in replacing good parts with good parts. Having said that, 1) again, I point to both me and Yonash having the same problem (we traded dimmer switches), and 2) after buzzing the rheostat in the dimmer for values, I popped in a 5.1k ohm resistor across the purple and green wires (ChevyMgr provided me a pinout diagram), so I effectively "replaced" the dimmer.

*grrrrrrrrrr!!!*

 

Hey XXL,

Was just wondering that have you done so many mods for this to be a Warrenty Issue ?

Mine has a intermitent problem in which the Radio and Air Bag Lights will flash Off but it is impossible to duplicate so I doubt the dealer can diagnose !

 

I'm seriously at a loss. The brake thing still makes me lean towards a ground ( which I know you checked ). With everything buttoned up, is there any clearance issue near the brake pedal? Can you unplug the brakelight switch and reproduce the issue?

 

sounds like the xmas light syndrom...when one is taken out of the circuit others will follow as the path changes....

 

First, my dealer experiences with this car have thus far been... uh... less than spectacular. Second, if _I_ were the dealer and saw a cut, soldered, and shrinked wire, I'd likely balk as well... though I would listen to the details of the complaint, and if the complaintant had a compelling and logical story, I'd probably spend a little time with a cursory investigation... which might lead to either booting the customer out, or actually going after the problem. I am CONFIDENT that the dealer wouldn't ever get to that decisionpoint. They'd just tell me to beat it... and I've been in the GM's office several times-- in part to build some "buddy" rapport, and in part due to the fubars his service department has invoked upon me in my previous visits.

Good brainstorming idea. I'll ferret out the brakelight switch and take it out of the mix. And going one further, maybe the brake lights are pulling "too much" current when applied, which is upsetting that ground somewhere. You know... my truck (see sig pic) only has about 100' of wire in the whole thing... and it doesn't have these kinds of issues

 

Yea, I was thinking how much easier it is to work on something older, unless you're dealing with voltage conversions

 

More info. Not sure if/how it's relevant...

On the inside fuse panel, both the owner's manual and the sticker on the back of the plastic interior panel show the following diagram--



What are #'s 31 and 32 _supposed_ to be in these diagrams? They kind of look like relays. However, in the car, there is a single red plastic mega-plug that has a zillion wires coming out of it, all appearing to be part of the rear harness (maybe also feeds the dash stuff???). When I pulled back the rest of the console panel and the carpet, I found that this harness has been "messed with" in a serious way. Tracing this harness down below the carpet, many of the wires have the dreaded Scotchloks on them... something NO SELF-RESPECTING installer would EVER use in the first place. Nobody has EVER done any work on this area since I bought the car new, and so it is quite likely the original selling dealer (I got the car through dealer trade). I recall an originating dealer add-a-tag that said something like "security system." BTW, this was the first time I really spent time with a drop light in this area... EVERY "spare" fuse as marked on the diagram was missing... a little bonus for the guy who used the Scotchloks? Asshats.

Item #28 is labeled "SWC BKLT (2A)... sounds like "switch backlight" to me... but it has no juice on either side of the fuse with key off, key on, headlights off, lights auto, lights on. I have a feeling this might be the source of my problem. But what's odd is that I'd expect one side to be hot, and the fuse to be popped. But with both sides not hot, I've got to wonder why. Where's the source voltage for the hot side of that fuse socket (obviously the clip and wire are behind that panel)? That panel looks to have a backside clipped to it, much like the underhood panel is, so it's "self-contained." Could it be as simple as the clip slipping out of the fuse panel (which means I can't buzz it, and the fuse can't touch it)? What a PITA!

 

Scotch Locks, as in Wire Nuts, WTF ! I would seriousley consider buttoning up the Beautch and saying BYE-BYE-BYE !!!!!

 

I've had the car since 05/08, it's got 21k on it, I've got a completely custom exhaust, a Garrett big-wheel turbo on it, TTR rear bar, shaved bumpers, and more. Not very practical to get rid of it at this point.

 

So what do you do about the "Butcherd" wire harness ? It's kind of like with my ride, "I don't care if it get's F^cked Up, just let me be the one to do it !