HHR SS Stage 1 Problem
#1
HHR SS Stage 1 Problem
I am 79 years young and have a HHR SS Stage 1 that periodically drops back to the safe mode without ryhme or reason. The engine light does not come on when this occurs but the max boost is 5 LBS. I have to pull the car off to the side - shut it down for a couple of minutes and upon restarting it goes back the stage 1 programing. When I take it to the dealer it checks out fine. The problem is driving me crazy - any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Old coot that loves my HHR SS Stage 1
#2
Has the dealer checked for stored codes? Next time it does that take it to Autozone. They will check codes for free. Let me know what code is being set. To go into reduced power a code must be set. It may be over boost caused by the waste gate rod setting.
#3
Even if it doesn't throw a code, data will still be present that should assist the tech. Of course they need to check all the new wiring connections and the connector pins at the new tmap sensors. Also need to check to make sure all the clamps are tight on the IC and piping. The problem may not be related to the stage install so checking the harnesses at the underhood electrical center, at the ECM and the BCM should be done.
#4
Even if it doesn't throw a code, data will still be present that should assist the tech. Of course they need to check all the new wiring connections and the connector pins at the new tmap sensors. Also need to check to make sure all the clamps are tight on the IC and piping. The problem may not be related to the stage install so checking the harnesses at the underhood electrical center, at the ECM and the BCM should be done.
I'll try and keep it short, but I have a little history leading into these problems.
The main concern is the boost fluctuation. Like tonight it just will not go over 15psi when most of the time 23psi. Conditions seem normal. Never seen a code.
I had it installed by a first timer but all seemed well. Connections look pretty good. Mind you though this is a dealer that drilled holes in my floor pan looking for a water leak.
Yeah leak came back next time it rained. So on to a new dealer (closer to home) for leak which they fixed after a week.
I had them write it up for a front end wobble under a load. Not fixed, Told me was normal.
And for boost varying. Some times drops to 10psi then back to only 15psi but then again mostly 20+psi
They said they logged it with engineers and compared it to another one and it was all normal.
I'm not really happy with these answers. but what do I do.
Now I may have just never experienced the brake issue before but now I had a hard pedal the other morning while just moving around in the driveway.
Pedal was hard like no vac. boost at all.
My question to this is that could they have reflashed it with the wrong calabration code for the kit with or w/o brake assist. and how do I know if this update has been done to mine. This SS was a PEP car built in 10/08. MY09.
Just a couple question that I'm hoping someone could help me with would make my ride even more enjoyable.
#5
If your boost is dropping to 5 psi and the car barely wants to move, your bypass valve is stuck. Happens to me every now and then but never throws the code. I found that when it does that, just turn the car off, pop the hood and unplug the wiring harness that the bypass valve vacuum line connects to and you'll hear a click and the bypass valve releases.
#6
The vehicle could be flashed wrong, but I don't think that is your problem. Give me the last 8 of your VIN and I can check on the vacuum pump. It appears, by what you state on the hard pedal that it does not have the pump.
#8
i have been working with my gm dealer to figure out the problems i was having. i will list them. now this has taken at least 2 months to trace.
first was getting a p0236 several times a day that turned out to be the stage 1 boost sensor failed. took 2 weeks to get that in and replaced.
second sensor replaced would go to low power mode once every 2 to 3 days. found a loose pin on the ecm. fixed it.
third would go in to low power state once a week replaced the ecm
all above issues would give a p0236 error
after all that i started getting random errors p0101 p2177
took it in could not find anything wrong gave me a RED Button box.
recorded some data to it.
took it back in for the tech to check it. gave him some ideas. anyway he finally traced it down to the wires in the main harness from the boost sensor to the ecm where picking up interference or where faulty. he finally got the ok from gm to build a new harness for that sensor and it has been a little over a week now with 0 problems.
i called them and they are closing the ticket out on it after over 2 months of diag.
there needs to be a bulletin on that.
do not know if any of that will help you out but there it is my story.
first was getting a p0236 several times a day that turned out to be the stage 1 boost sensor failed. took 2 weeks to get that in and replaced.
second sensor replaced would go to low power mode once every 2 to 3 days. found a loose pin on the ecm. fixed it.
third would go in to low power state once a week replaced the ecm
all above issues would give a p0236 error
after all that i started getting random errors p0101 p2177
took it in could not find anything wrong gave me a RED Button box.
recorded some data to it.
took it back in for the tech to check it. gave him some ideas. anyway he finally traced it down to the wires in the main harness from the boost sensor to the ecm where picking up interference or where faulty. he finally got the ok from gm to build a new harness for that sensor and it has been a little over a week now with 0 problems.
i called them and they are closing the ticket out on it after over 2 months of diag.
there needs to be a bulletin on that.
do not know if any of that will help you out but there it is my story.
#10
This is just my opinion. But if you didn't have a problem before the install, then the problem was at THEIR wiring not the factory. The dealer stated it was at the ECM so they could get Chevrolet to pay for their time trying to find their screw up. Now like I said it's my opinion, but it is based on 34 years in dealership service departments.
If you are having a problem and you want to check it yourself I would start at the new crimp connectors to the TMAPs and the TMAP connectors themselves.
If you are having a problem and you want to check it yourself I would start at the new crimp connectors to the TMAPs and the TMAP connectors themselves.