I just bought a used 2010 HHR from a used car dealer. Shortly after purchase the oil and check engine light came on. The oil light went back out right away, but the check engine light stayed on. It also began to develop a miss that got progressively worse.


AutoZone read the code and it was for the camshaft sensor. I replaced the intake and exhaust camshaft sensors as well as the crankshaft sensor. (It has not been reprogrammed).


The miss did not go away, but now it would stall out under idling when stopped or even just pushing in the clutch to cost to a light or stop sign. Pretty much anytime there was onload on the engine it would stall. It's a manual transmission.


It would always start back up after stalling until this last time.


I replaced the spark plugs with iridium plugs and replaced all four coils.


It cranks, but it still won't start. I noticed one plug seemed to have a lot of oil on it, but I don't see how that is related to it not starting at all. Seems to be a separate issue to me at least.

least.

I have looked at the throttle body and it seems to be clean and operating as designed when pushing the pedal.


So my next step is replace the ECM, but that is kind of expensive. Is there something I am missing I should try first.


Also, if the ECM is the most likely issue what are the chances it's just a software deal and the dealer can reprogram the current module and it will work fine. If it's not likely I will probably just by one of the preprogrammed ones.


Just for information. I live out in the country, the car doesn't start and I'm 25 plus miles to the nearest town so just take it to... Isn't as simple or easy as one might think.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions or thoughts.

 

Welcome to the site, what’s the condition of the battery?
Did you take a compression test? If so what are the numbers?
this could be simple, but we need to start somewhere.
I also suggest to check the under hood fuse box.

 

What was the CODE? "was for the camshaft sensor" does not mean anything!

If it was P0016 or P0017 you need a new timing chain.
Did you bother to check the oil level?

 

to the forums!!

Before you do a compression test, you should pull off the valve cover and inspect the timing chain. Any slack at all means you need a new timing set.

If there is a misfire, there should be a code for that.

Ignoring the oil warning light was risky. The engine might be toast.

You should not crank the engine anymore until the timing is verified as correct.

 

The battery is good. I will check the fuse box. I don't have the ability to do a compression check at my house. If it comes to that I will have to haul it somewhere.

I don't have the code with me or I would have posted it. I can get it tonight when I get home.

Yes I bothered to check the oil.

Yeah, that crossed my mind. I guess I should do that before buying an ECM. It definitely seems like that could be the timing chain.

It only read the one code and it wasn't reading a misfire. I will get the code this evening, but I looked it up in several places and they all said camshaft sensor was the most likely cause. I will get the code.

The light went right back out. That was a couple of weeks ago. Yeah, it was risky, but I could look at the harness and see it had a bad connection into the oil sensor. I could wiggle it and make it come on or go off. I know, still risky, but what's done is done.



Thanks for the help everyone. I will get the code this evening.

 

What in the world suggested a new ECM?
I would not even turn it on if you have P0016 or P0017. Park it until you get a new chain and guides.
I sounded sarcastic because you would not believe how many people just like "the pretty red and yellow lights" on the dash.

 

Betcha we have one driven w/ a CEL and P0016/17. DOA

 

The only reason I jumped to ecm was because it controls all the sensors and adjust accordingly. I checked for fuel and spark again after I changed the plugs and coil and all was good. The timing chain crossed my mind, but I read in another thread how a similar problem was the ECM. I planned to check the timing chain before ordering it, but only to check it. I wasn't really thinking it was the issue because it only happened when there was no load. With load, even just holding it with the clutch on a hill it would run fine. Maybe I was looking at it wrong, but that was my train of thought.

 

Many times the code just tells us that the sensors are detecting what they are supposed to, nothing wrong with them but a crankshaft or camshaft code would indicate the timing is off thereby telling the computers and the counter guy wants to sell you a sensor, when in fact it’s the timing chain loose enough to skip a tooth!
We have seen a lot of folks buy the new sensor and on the way home the chain fails and takes out the valves or pistons or both!

 

You will likely waste your money replacing your PCM. You need to start with the basics and scan it for all codes not just the PCM.
The plug that was wet tells me you will likely need to do a compression test buy lets start with codes and take one thing at a time.