The check engine light came on in my '10 LT1 a couple of days ago and the car was acting funny. I was sitting at a light and it felt like somebody gently bumped into me from behind. It kept shaking back and forth at traffic lights. The engine is also very rough on idle. I took it to O'Reilly's and had the diagnostic test and the results were that the camshaft position actuator solenoid was stuck in one position. Hopefully this is just a problem with the solenoid and not with the engine itself. I think I'm going to try it. How difficult is it? Is it bonenumbingly simple or is there a lot of work to it? Is it simple and straightforward or tricky and finicky? What other things should I know about before I attempt this? I've seen the videos and the thread on this forum about doing this operation but does anybody else have any tidbits to add or anything that I need to watch for that hasn't been mentioned in the videos? What tools will I need? What parts should I cover with towels? How dirty of a job is it? Will I be in uncomfortable positions for long periods of time (I'm a big guy Are any of the bolts or connectors really hard to get to? I have short fat fingers and big hands so it is hard for me to squeeze into smaller places.

Here's a list of some things I have and haven't done. I've never built an engine, and I wouldn't know where to get started when it comes to body work. I'm sure I could assemble an engine if I had a diagram and a lot of time, but I've never tackled it. I have, however, changed transmissions (twice in one day!) in a 1980 Mercury Cougar, I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump in an '85 Buick Sky Hawk, I've replaced mechanical fuel pumps on a 302 and a Ford Cologne V6. I've done all sorts of interior work on cars and I've installed stereos. I've replaced brake rotors and pads and I removed the front clip from a 1955 Bel Air sports coupe, I've changed plugs and done rudimentary wiring repairs. I am pretty good mechanically when it comes to indoor appliances and hardware. I know how to build and fix computers. Is this too much for me to tackle? I don't want to try it if it's something I cannot finish and have to call a tow truck to come get the car and take it to the shop and pay hundreds of dollars to fix it. I am pretty confident that I can change it but if anybody thinks I'm biting too much off, please set me straight.

Will it harm the car to drive it with the (hopefully) sensor problem? I work about 10 miles away and I will need to drive to work on Wednesday and Thursday and fix the car when I get up on Friday. I certainly don't want to harm the car. The only time that the issue is noticeable is at idle, and when going down the road at all the car seems to run fine although it has been getting cruddy gas mileage lately. I may have to see if the old slipping transmission Cavalier will make it there and back.

What are the chances that I'm barking up the wrong tree and the camshaft itself is damaged?

 

According to this not bad

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/

 

Without the CEL code (the alpha-numeric code, and NOT a verbal description) I hesitate to comment. You refered to the part needing replacement as a solenoid and then later as a sensor - they are two totally different things.

Post the code itself and if it is P0010/11/3/14 then yeah it refers to the SOLENOID which Oldblue gave you the link to, and they are a piece of cake to replace (the procedure being rather long makes it seem more difficult than it is).

 

It is VERY EASY and it will take about 1 hour. Take your time and change them BOTH( intake and exhaust). Replace 1 at a time.

Look up the article and you will see how easy it is. Take lots of pictures and it will help you.

 

Are there any other tools that haven't been listed that would make the job easier?

 

No, just the ones listed have worked for others doing this task!

 

Just jump into it - it's as easy as can be. If an old guy here can do it...........

 

This is one of the first things I did.... I had the hard shifting and CEL and Traction Light problem happen a couple times. Both solenoids are easy to replace but make sure to replace both at once. I also accidentally broke the plastic retainer clip on the top of one of the but since I changed them out almost two years ago I have had zero issues. The issue actually reared its ugly head the second time I even drove my HHR!!!! Almost had a heart attack before I found out how simple of a fix it is.

 

Tonight I was driving it and the light is no off and it isn't making the jerking motions anymore. Did a solenoid just get briefly stuck? Should I replace it anyway?

 

There's a possibility that it got "hung up" briefly, but the issue will most likely return eventually.

One key thing to remember, clean oil and regular oil changes are vital to keeping the VVT componentry happy.

Yes, you can rack up tons of miles on the oil if you rely on the Oil Life Indicator. But us gray haired geezers here still stick to the "old fashoined" 3,000-5,000 mile change intervals no matter what the DIC indicates is left on the "Life" of the oil in the sump.

Engine oil and filter elements are cheap compared to a new or remanufactured engine, and as long as the old oil is recycled or disposed of responsibly, the net impact to the environment is negligible.