I think my 2.2 jumped time
#1
I think my 2.2 jumped time
Hello everyone.
I have a 2010 HHR with 150K miles. Drove the car another town about 45 miles from home no issues at all. When I came out and cranked the car to come home it was running very rough like it was hitting on 3 cylinders not all 4, I drove it about a mile and stopped at a gas station to put some gas it in, after that it would not crank back up. Had it towed to a shop and they told me there was "no compression" and quoted me $2600 for a timing chain and head work assuming it bent some of the valves. I had the car towed to my house because I wasn't going to put that kind of money into the car at that point.
Doing some reading it is possible it jumped time and now it is far enough out so it won't crank and this could have been caused by the timing chain tensioner going bad which looks like they do. As it stands I think I have 4 choices with the car.
1- Scarp the car for $200-300
2- Pay the $2600 to the mechanic which will turn into $3000 I'm sure
3- Get a engine from the Pull a part for $200 and swap it
4- Pull the covers off and take a look at was is broken if anything, maybe replaced the tensioner or full timing change kit for about $100 and hope the valves are not bent.
Leaning toward number 4, I could open up the engine and if I see damage just call it quits and swap the engine, if nothing is broken it could just be jumped timing and I would need to replaced the timing parts. I don't really have a need for the car, my wife and I both have cars, my youngest won't be 16 until next year and doesn't really want this as his first car and don't really have time to work on it because I'm trying to restore a classic car for my self. But if I put the time into it I should be able to sell if for $3500 which would pay for the parts I use but I'm still out my time. plus I'm thinking if they car wasn't running when the timing jumped there is a good chance it didn't damage the valves so it could be a cheap fix.
Mainly looking to see if my logic is flawed here and get some advice.
Thanks
I have a 2010 HHR with 150K miles. Drove the car another town about 45 miles from home no issues at all. When I came out and cranked the car to come home it was running very rough like it was hitting on 3 cylinders not all 4, I drove it about a mile and stopped at a gas station to put some gas it in, after that it would not crank back up. Had it towed to a shop and they told me there was "no compression" and quoted me $2600 for a timing chain and head work assuming it bent some of the valves. I had the car towed to my house because I wasn't going to put that kind of money into the car at that point.
Doing some reading it is possible it jumped time and now it is far enough out so it won't crank and this could have been caused by the timing chain tensioner going bad which looks like they do. As it stands I think I have 4 choices with the car.
1- Scarp the car for $200-300
2- Pay the $2600 to the mechanic which will turn into $3000 I'm sure
3- Get a engine from the Pull a part for $200 and swap it
4- Pull the covers off and take a look at was is broken if anything, maybe replaced the tensioner or full timing change kit for about $100 and hope the valves are not bent.
Leaning toward number 4, I could open up the engine and if I see damage just call it quits and swap the engine, if nothing is broken it could just be jumped timing and I would need to replaced the timing parts. I don't really have a need for the car, my wife and I both have cars, my youngest won't be 16 until next year and doesn't really want this as his first car and don't really have time to work on it because I'm trying to restore a classic car for my self. But if I put the time into it I should be able to sell if for $3500 which would pay for the parts I use but I'm still out my time. plus I'm thinking if they car wasn't running when the timing jumped there is a good chance it didn't damage the valves so it could be a cheap fix.
Mainly looking to see if my logic is flawed here and get some advice.
Thanks
#3
When it turns over it sounds weird like it is turning too fast or like the plugs are out. Never heard any metal noises.
If the chain broke it would be better off to change all the timing stuff at one time. So that would be $125-175 so might be better off to swap the engine only because they are stinking cheap and if I have any valve damage I will be more then the cost of one from a junk yard.
Thanks
#4
Pull the valve cover and the front cover, it could be just the front guide broken, but at least you’ll know.
if you do replace the engine , invest in a new timing chain and balance shaft chain kit.
if you do replace the engine , invest in a new timing chain and balance shaft chain kit.
#5
Let me ask a follow up questions.
It would be much easier to swap the chain and all the parts with the engine out of the car so anyone got a rough idea on how long it takes to pull the engine out of the top? Doing some searching I found a few places that talk about talking everything out the top but no one says if it is a 4 hour job or 12 hour job. Guessing the first one will take longer because it is all new and you want to label everything so it all goes back right.
And if I swap the engine I read I will have to have the computer reset to talk to one of the sensor correct because it throws a code. Not sure what code or even if that is true so anyone confirm that?
It would be much easier to swap the chain and all the parts with the engine out of the car so anyone got a rough idea on how long it takes to pull the engine out of the top? Doing some searching I found a few places that talk about talking everything out the top but no one says if it is a 4 hour job or 12 hour job. Guessing the first one will take longer because it is all new and you want to label everything so it all goes back right.
And if I swap the engine I read I will have to have the computer reset to talk to one of the sensor correct because it throws a code. Not sure what code or even if that is true so anyone confirm that?
#6
FYI. If the timing chain broke, you can almost guarantee that it bent some valves. Maybe even poked a hole in a piston.
The engine is designed for removal via the bottom by dropping the engine cradle. There have been a few on this site that have removed them through the top but had to come up with their own way of how to do it.
As far as how long it takes for doing it out the top, hard to say since that's not the procedure that the repair manual shows.
The engine is designed for removal via the bottom by dropping the engine cradle. There have been a few on this site that have removed them through the top but had to come up with their own way of how to do it.
As far as how long it takes for doing it out the top, hard to say since that's not the procedure that the repair manual shows.
#7
Just talked to the local Chevy deal service center and they don't know of any issues with the computer needing to be reset after a engine swap as long as you go back with the same type.
Did find a engine with 112K miles out of the car at a local yard for $400 so might go that way just because it would save me hours in the yard pulling it myself.
Did find a engine with 112K miles out of the car at a local yard for $400 so might go that way just because it would save me hours in the yard pulling it myself.
#8
A. the flat rate to R&R the engine is 10 hours. I imagine about the same out the top.
B. you need to relearn the crankshaft position sensor variance. May not throw a code but performance will increase.
P0315 CKP system variation not learned or
P0335,P0336 P0338 are CKP physical problems either the sensor or the wires.
B. you need to relearn the crankshaft position sensor variance. May not throw a code but performance will increase.
P0315 CKP system variation not learned or
P0335,P0336 P0338 are CKP physical problems either the sensor or the wires.
#9
If you go with that engine with that mileage I would suggest replacing some of the worn parts. New timing chain set and tensioners. Balance shaft chain kit also. Water pump and new AC Delco thermostat. All will be easy to replace while the engine is still out.
#10
Ok pulled the cover and rocker arms are broken so engine is toast.
Going to swap it.