Inboard front brake pads worn out
07-07-2013, 10:34 PM
#12
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Join Date: 12-24-2007
Location: Seville. OH
Posts: 2,873
Can't we agree to disagree? I will be the first to agree that self adjusters don't always work well but in my opinion I don't see the rear brakes doing a whole lot for warping front rotors. Think about it if rear brake adjustment made the front rotors hot to the point they warp how do you explain cars with rear disc brakes that warp front rotors. Can't adjust disc brakes 
we all have are own opinions and I am happy to share mine and consider others right or wrong 
we all have are own opinions and I am happy to share mine and consider others right or wrong
07-08-2013, 12:52 AM
#14
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Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 15,970
I'd put the cause down to not frequent enough brake inspections, screechers or not. Tire rotations, and swapping summer/winters gives a great opportinity to eye-ball the brakes really well, and make note of how they are wearing, and forecasting when the next set of pads/shoes are going to be needed.
There is a inspection hole on the caliper so you can see the inner pad with the wheel off. You can see the outer easily enough when the wheel is off. If you cannot see the slot in the pad, then replace very soon. The other indicator is the brake fluid level, never top it off.
Plus you can also see pads with wheels ON, if you have mags & a Dental mirror w/handle.. It ain't rocket science..
Neither is 15 minutes to adjust rear drum brakes. (Time includes washing up hands also)...
07-08-2013, 01:26 PM
#15
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Join Date: 11-19-2008
Location: oregon
Posts: 123
There is a inspection hole on the caliper so you can see the inner pad with the wheel off. You can see the outer easily enough when the wheel is off. If you cannot see the slot in the pad, then replace very soon. The other indicator is the brake fluid level, never top it off.
" (Note: Bleeder screws were open to avoid damaging ABS upstream.)" Not a worry, you never need to open the bleeder unless you need to bleed (duh). There is no one way valving to damage, it's just an inline pump.
That is why the brake fluid reservoir is an indicator; full=new pads, low=replace pads. You should NEVER need to add to the reservoir except to flush the system or replace calipers or cylinders. In case you want to argue "old school" read your Owner Manual.
" (Note: Bleeder screws were open to avoid damaging ABS upstream.)" Not a worry, you never need to open the bleeder unless you need to bleed (duh). There is no one way valving to damage, it's just an inline pump.
That is why the brake fluid reservoir is an indicator; full=new pads, low=replace pads. You should NEVER need to add to the reservoir except to flush the system or replace calipers or cylinders. In case you want to argue "old school" read your Owner Manual.
Only renewing brake fluid for major work, such as replacing a caliper, means essentially NEVER renewing fluid. Furthermore, who knows how much the level is supposed to drop as an accurate indicator of anything but a leak.
I think there IS a danger of damaging ABS by compressing pistons with bleeders closed. Even if not, it is bad practice to push possible debris upstream. As long as the bleeder is at the highest point, little air can get into bore with bleeder open; I close bleeder after piston compressed, and finish job with very minor gravity bleeding - typically just several drops since piston stays compressed with new pads.
07-08-2013, 06:18 PM
#16
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
Blacky disagrees. Every 2 years, which is about 25 k mi, I pump old fluid out of reservoir and gravity bleed brakes. Alternate years, I just pump old fluid out of reservoir and top up with fresh. Level changes little between service.
Only renewing brake fluid for major work, such as replacing a caliper, means essentially NEVER renewing fluid. Furthermore, who knows how much the level is supposed to drop as an accurate indicator of anything but a leak.
I think there IS a danger of damaging ABS by compressing pistons with bleeders closed. Even if not, it is bad practice to push possible debris upstream. As long as the bleeder is at the highest point, little air can get into bore with bleeder open; I close bleeder after piston compressed, and finish job with very minor gravity bleeding - typically just several drops since piston stays compressed with new pads.
Only renewing brake fluid for major work, such as replacing a caliper, means essentially NEVER renewing fluid. Furthermore, who knows how much the level is supposed to drop as an accurate indicator of anything but a leak.
I think there IS a danger of damaging ABS by compressing pistons with bleeders closed. Even if not, it is bad practice to push possible debris upstream. As long as the bleeder is at the highest point, little air can get into bore with bleeder open; I close bleeder after piston compressed, and finish job with very minor gravity bleeding - typically just several drops since piston stays compressed with new pads.
Read my post again, I did say UNLESS you are replacing the fluid, I did not say when to do this, some people may think 4 years is way to long. You can tell if you have a leak by looking under the car and you will have a spongey pedal from the air that gets sucked in. RTFM it does say to not top off the fluid because it is an indicator of brake pad wear, there is a "full" and "low" line. I have NEVER seen a recommendation of gravity bleeding.
Blacky may "think" there are problems, but in fact the ABS is only a pump, which is only activated when the computer tells it to run, under Blacky's logic it would harm the ABS to use the brakes for normal use (that is forcing fluid under pressure through the ABS pump). Were would debris come from if the system remains closed and properly maintained?
If Blacky had followed these simple steps he would not have wiped his rotors, and he did if you went to metal!
1) inspect the pads regularly (more than once a year)
2) if the slot is no longer visible THE PADS ARE WORN OUT, if you wait for the screechers, you have gone too long and you probably won't hear them anyway (I have personal experience here).
You can do anything you want with your brakes, but get yourself informed. Read an Owner Manual and a Service Manual, don't rely on "old School" shade tree mechaniking. And don't tailgate.
Enlightenment, not Argument
Hrrumph!
07-08-2013, 09:13 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-19-2008
Location: oregon
Posts: 123
Owners manuals today have many defects.
They are written to the legal advantage and selling advantage of the seller.
They are also dumbed down as per our school system.
We generally have no way of knowing who wrote a given section.//
There is no safer way to bleed brakes than by gravity.
Opening the bleeders before compressing caliper pistons is standard practice; I also loosen the reservoir cap to releive any pressure in case a little fluid does flow in reverse. The pitfalls on these cars are many, and potentially expensive. If you create a pressure differential and you're wrong, good luck. If you depress the brake pedal to the floor during bleeding, and there is some varnish or junk in the mechanicals, good luck.
Too often people want to be told precisely what to do, but have no idea WHAT they are doing.
On previous cars my favored method of bleeding/flushing was with a power bleeder. I never got a really straight story about the HHR. A mechanic at the Chevy dealership told me that if I brought an HHR in for that service, he would gravity bleed the brakes.
A sharp young guy at a local parts store told me that he wrecked a $1,500 ABS module - identical to what they have on the HHR - by compressing the caliper pistons without first opening the bleeders.
I invite any master mechanics out there to share their wisdom.
In any case, gravity bleeding is fun on a lazy summer day; and it costs nothing to open the bleeders before compressing the caliper piston.
They are written to the legal advantage and selling advantage of the seller.
They are also dumbed down as per our school system.
We generally have no way of knowing who wrote a given section.//
There is no safer way to bleed brakes than by gravity.
Opening the bleeders before compressing caliper pistons is standard practice; I also loosen the reservoir cap to releive any pressure in case a little fluid does flow in reverse. The pitfalls on these cars are many, and potentially expensive. If you create a pressure differential and you're wrong, good luck. If you depress the brake pedal to the floor during bleeding, and there is some varnish or junk in the mechanicals, good luck.
Too often people want to be told precisely what to do, but have no idea WHAT they are doing.
On previous cars my favored method of bleeding/flushing was with a power bleeder. I never got a really straight story about the HHR. A mechanic at the Chevy dealership told me that if I brought an HHR in for that service, he would gravity bleed the brakes.
A sharp young guy at a local parts store told me that he wrecked a $1,500 ABS module - identical to what they have on the HHR - by compressing the caliper pistons without first opening the bleeders.
I invite any master mechanics out there to share their wisdom.
In any case, gravity bleeding is fun on a lazy summer day; and it costs nothing to open the bleeders before compressing the caliper piston.
Last edited by blacky; 07-09-2013 at 02:06 AM. Reason: complete answer
07-08-2013, 09:30 PM
#18
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Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
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