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I was getting a battery warning light, 3 or 4 times in a few days. Illuminated for about 20 seconds each time. After the few days, I went to AutoZone for a free battery load test and charging system test.
Even though there were zero other symptoms, the battery was discharged. So discharged that the tech said they could not run the charging system test.
I took it home, trickle charged the battery overnight. I went to O'Reilly's the next day. The battery was discharged some again, just from starting the engine and driving the few blocks there. But they were able to test the charging system, and the results were that the alternator was bad.
I know it doesn't really answer your question, but perhaps it will help you, and other readers, a little bit.
Side note, all the local auto parts stores wanted $230 for a (store brand, remanufactured) alternator for this SS, none had it in stock. I checked online, an Amazon seller had a brand new OE ACDelco for $70 something.
Side note to the side note. The new alternator squeaked at low RPMs for a few weeks, now it's quiet, no further problems with the car.
It’s a result of low voltage. Either the battery or the alternator. You said your battery tested good at 12 volts static , and your alternator was just fine at 14. Something volts . Eventually one will cause the other to fail.
Or it could be as simple as a bad/corroded wire connection.
Just dealt with a similar issue on my tractor. Wouldn't start every once in a while and the charge light would flicker ever so often. Stuck a volt meter on the battery.
12.07 volts. Probed the other end of the battery cable at the starter. 9.42 volts.
Problem was corrosion at the battery terminal.
Decided to just replace the 30 year old cable with a new one. Problem fixed.
I was getting a battery warning light, 3 or 4 times in a few days. Illuminated for about 20 seconds each time. After the few days, I went to AutoZone for a free battery load test and charging system test.
Even though there were zero other symptoms, the battery was discharged. So discharged that the tech said they could not run the charging system test.
I took it home, trickle charged the battery overnight. I went to O'Reilly's the next day. The battery was discharged some again, just from starting the engine and driving the few blocks there. But they were able to test the charging system, and the results were that the alternator was bad.
This is basically the same game plan I worked through over the past couple days. The battery was quite low. I trickled charged it enough to drive to O'Reilly's. That particular trip, the system decided to function properly, so their tester said "all good." I drove it back home. Next morning, in cold temps, it faulted again. I immediately drove to O'Reilly's with my wife following in her car. Their tech told me to shut it off to start their test. A few minutes later, he had me restart it and the system behaved properly, so their tester said "all good." By this point, I was quite frustrated. So I left the car in their parking lot and drove home with my wife. 5hrs later we returned and had their tech plug in the tester again before ever starting the engine. Finally, it acted up during his test. He said battery is fine, a little discharged, but the alternator's voltage regulator is going bad. It was a relief to finally narrow it down. By now my battery was quite low again setting in their parking lot. My wife followed me back home, but needless to say, we had to stop a couple times to jump it and get another few miles. Finally made it home and rejuvenated the battery with the trickle charger.
To double check and be absolutely sure, I'm going to deep freeze the alternator since cold temps make it fault. I'll carry it to O'Reilly's in a freezer bag with some ice to have them bench test it one last time before purchasing a new one.
Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
Side note, all the local auto parts stores wanted $230 for a (store brand, remanufactured) alternator for this SS, none had it in stock. I checked online, an Amazon seller had a brand new OE ACDelco for $70 something.
Great idea! I'm going to scour the internet to hopefully dig up a deal. OEM would be nice!
Originally Posted by Oldblue
It’s a result of low voltage. Either the battery or the alternator. You said your battery tested good at 12 volts static , and your alternator was just fine at 14. Something volts . Eventually one will cause the other to fail.
Agreed! It's something causing low voltage.
Originally Posted by firemangeorge
Or it could be as simple as a bad/corroded wire connection.
Agreed. I'm watching/looking for any wiring issues. So far nothing has been found.
While the light is on you should have some OBD codes. They go away when the warning light goes out.
You might check the current sensor, that curios plastic bit around the ground lug.
to partially answer the original question; both are PWM not voltage:
While the light is on you should have some OBD codes. They go away when the warning light goes out.
You might check the current sensor, that curios plastic bit around the ground lug.
Yes, I had hoped to uncover some DTCs, but O'Reilly's told me there were none.
Originally Posted by donbrew
to partially answer the original question; both are PWM not voltage:
Thank you for that information and the screen shots. It's helpful!
The dust may be settling. Looks like the alternator is bad. I removed it, put it in ice bags (it only faults when really cold), and toted it to O'Reilly's for a bench test. Their test reported a bad voltage regulator and rectifier. So I guess I'm going to be buying a new replacement. Thanks for the help everyone!
02-14-2021 | 09:20 AM
