Hooked as in hung it there out of the way? Or wiring harness connection to strut tower??
Was the battery connected at this time, did it blow a fuse or circuit breaker when you attempted to engage the starter?

 

Hooked meaning he thought it was a ground wire and bolted it down and no fuses popped car had no power as that is the main power wire from the battery to the fuse box yes battery was hooked up and positive was grounded to the car chassis

 

So, that would be a direct short, so, any burnt wiring there is a fuse back on the positive cable by the battery, I don't recall a fusible link up by the ECM or the starter!

 

No couldn't find any melted or burnt wires

 

The positive battery cable was hooked to a ground and that didn't burn? If it was connected like you say and every cable/wire is good then I guess the ground from the battery wasn't hooked up.
Post pictures that might help.

 

You want me to post a pic of everything on the steering column not working???

 

No, we understand that is your problem. Are there any pictures of the wiring under the hood that you think are out of place?

 

CatMan has it correct. For a little FYI. There are 3 positive leads on the passenger side of the fuse box. The one closest to the firewall is for power steering. The 2 bolted together are the main lead from the battery and the starter lead. You should actually be ok, really depends how long it was hooked up. I'd put money on your battery is toast. The main lead is about 4awg it could hold the amps for a few minutes without cooking, the connection points will get very hot first as they have the least amount of conductive surface area. The battery probably swelled excessively and boiled off some of the heat.

How long was it hooked up, and how did you notice the problem?

We'll check for that fusible link for Old Blue first! Do you have a multimeter with a continuity tester? I'm not sure if there's a fusible link between the battery and fuse box, we can check to make sure the cable is ok though. What you'll need;

1. A cheap multimeter with continuity tester(7 Function Multimeter)
2. About 30' of any wire (speaker wire will work, whatever you have handy!)
3. Some electrical tape (any tape really, just a way to attach your wire to the positive lead)

First, disconnect the positive lead from the battery and fuse box. We want it isolated. Next, tape one end of your wire (speaker or whatever, stripped bare) to the positive lead in the trunk. Now run the other end up front close to the fuse box. Set your meter to continuity, touch the + and - together it should beep/ring (whatever) Now we know your meter works, what we are checking is to see if the main positive lead has any breaks or open fuses. Take one of your meter leads and hold it to your Main positive lead. Touch the other meter lead to your cable you have taped to the other end of the main lead. It should beep and then you know your cable isn't burnt in half somewhere under the car.

If you have continuity you probably have no issues other than a dead battery. Lesson learned.

 

I noticed it as soon as I hoped in the car and attempted to start it I noticed I had no power so I checked the battery and my charger flashed a red light meaning something wrong with the battery so I immediately disconnected the battery and then the charger read the battery at 30% so I knew there was a problem as soon as I went to hook the battery back up it through strong sparks like a mig welder so I traced the wire and realized the wire had been hooked up to the ground and the fuse box was getting no juice...
As for the fuseable link I tested continuity and that fuse is fine as is all the other fuses...
Now I have power to the car the pwr windows work but everything associated with the steering column isn't working no fuel pump priming no swithching on the starter solenoid the controls that shuffle trough the mileage and other stuff in the gauge cluster (dtc)

 

I sent you a p.m.