I'm sorry to hear you're off to the dealer. Probably 150 just to scan it and then of course we'll learn the extent of your damage. If I had to venture a guess, you'll be in the 1500-2000 dollar range. Keep us posted. Thanks for the update

 

update

wound up being the pcm must have looped back a charge through the ground strap...

quick side note that surprised me is the dealer said they cannot use a used bcm that once it is programmed that it cannot be re-programmed for a different vin number!@#$%

 

They lied! They just won't install used parts.

I have installed a pre programmed used BCM in my HHR. Check on eBay, they cost about $100.

 

They installed a used pcm for me knowing I paid 40 bucks for it.
How did you re-program the bcm? You sure it was a straight pull or was it one of those places that rebuilds them? Because $100 is alot more than the junkyard charged me for the bcm??? I got the bcm for $40

 

I supplied my VIN to the vendor, he has access to GM technet and programmed the used BCM to my VIN. $100 is less than what my local GM shops would charge to re-program anything (they charge $109 for each tech2 operation + a fee to DL the firmware). It was setup as the original came from the factory. You still have to learn the crankshaft position sensor (that can be done with a good scantool, not necessarily a Tech2).

Which is the truth?

 

OOPS! I meant ECM not BCM. My bi-focals are malfunctioning this morning!

 

UGH!!!
wtf...
now i have no positive power in the engine compartment!@#$%
full battery but i got no voltage at the fuse boxe terminal in engine compartment????

 

Got continuity? From battery + to fuse panel? It doesn't appear you do. Does it have anything to do with the + looped back through the ground strap you mentioned earlier? I'll reread and edit. Can't do much browsing on the phone! If you want some phone support I'm willing to lend some time/knowledge. Try getting that out of ZZP, not sure why they even have a phone number.

- I remember this now, we've spoke on the phone before! I'm not too busy today. Porting and polishing my new LDK intake in between Honey-do projects

 

kinda confused battery is fully charged and battery charger confirms amps and volts
but i am not getting "anything" off the terminal on the fuse box car has no power to anything???
if i hook jumper cables to the terminal under the hood i can power up the car no cables= keys locked in ignition and no power to anything....
50amp next to battery is good confirmed with continuity tester...

 

Probably should've left this with your other post so everyone can see the whole picture...

Did you ever confirm continuity in the + line. It's clearly not getting there.

1. Disconnect + from battery and fuse panel
2. Get any wire long enough to make it from the battery + to around the engine compartment.
3. Connect your new wire to battery+ with tape or something
4. Now you use your continuity tester between your new wire and the engine compartment battery+

Does this make sense? Like I said before, if your inline fuse didn't blow when your friend hooked the + up to the strut tower. The cable burnt from the massive amps it saw...it's seems pretty obvious. If you have a good battery and no power up front...it ends somewhere in between. Seeing as how only one wire does that. It has to be there