Just changed clutch, due to a broken pressure plate bolt it took nearly a week to do the job.

So now the car is put back together exactly as it was before or atleast I think it is. Everything that was disconnected is reconnected. The only things left to do are bleed the clutch and put the wheels back on and set it on the ground. But the car will not crank at all. I turn the key and the information center lights up and says low fuel, power steering, ---% oil life etc, I'm assuming all of that is because the computer was out for 5-6 days and it just needs to get signals to be happy again. But I still can't start the engine to get that info to the computer.

I've double and triple checked every wire and connection. If I'm not mistaken the clutch/nuetral safety switch is only concerned with the position of the pedal, no? Could the lack of hydraulic pressure keep it from cranking?


Also, how the hell does one bleed the clutch?

 

Battery died?

 

nope plenty of power, its just acting like the clutch isnt being pressed

 

Ok i bled the clutch myself, through the ingenius use of a tree pruner between pedal and seat lol.

But the car still will not crank. The behavior is as if you just turn the key without pushing the clutch

 

From what I'm seeing in my Mitchell, there are 2 switches on the clutch master cylinder. one is the clutch interlock and one is the cruise control cut out. But they only go into the "clutch pedal position sensor" which is also the "cruise control release switch" it confuses me!

Anyways, that is a mechanical switch on the pedal assembly, that does have some adjustment.
Installation Procedure
Fig. 11: Clutch Pedal Cruise Control Release Switch
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Install the switch retainer to the pedal bracket with the retainer indexing arrow facing the instrument
panel, if removed previously.
2. Connect the clutch pedal position switch electrical connector.
3. Pull back lightly on the clutch pedal to ensure the system is fully released.
4. While lightly holding the pedal, install and adjust the clutch pedal position switch:
1. If a new clutch pedal assembly is being installed, the pedal assembly will include a clutch pedal
position switch adjustment spacer in place over the switch contact rubber bumper.
2. If the pedal assembly is being reused, position a 2 mm (5/64 in) drill bit or hex wrench as a spacer
over the face of the switch contact rubber bumper.
3. Insert the clutch pedal position switch into the retainer.
4. Ensure the switch plunger is fully depressed against the adjustment spacer, drill bit, or hex wrench
without deflecting the bracket or the switch contact arm on the pedal.
5. Rotate the switch clockwise to secure the switch in the retainer.
6. Remove the adjustment spacer, drill bit, or hex wrench.
Fig. 12: Locating Release Switch Contact
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
5. Release the clutch pedal and inspect the switch barrel to switch contact rubber bumper clearance (1).
Specification: Clearance should not exceed 1.2 mm (0.047 in).

Maybe that makes some sense, if you have one in your sights.

 

It shouldn't be a problem with the switch though, I haven't fiddled with that at all. Now I just went out and jumped the terminals on the starter with the key in the on position. It cranked very strong but no fire because obviously the computer isn't sending fuel. So I know everything works separately but it doesn't want to work together.

 

There wouldn't be any safeguards to keep it from starting with the hood open or while jacked up with wheels off, would there?

 

If you have remote start it won't start with the hood open. Do I sense a slap to the forehead?

 

No remote start here. Also, just found a 13mm nut on the floor, can't figure out where it came from. can't find any loose wires or any posts missing a nut.

 

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