Hello!
I have a common problem, it seems, but a source is unknown.
Several months ago I noticed my 2009 HHR takes and extra second of cranking in the morning. Slowly it got worse, up to 2-3 seconds of cranking after an overnight parking. It would start just fine after even a short ride. I went to O'reilly's for a battery check, they connected to under the hood probes and deemed battery bad. I parked the car for about 2 days and cranking time went from 2-3 seconds to 5-7 and a check engine light would be lit during that time. Still would start fine after a short ride.
I replaced the battery, since it was at least 7 years old, but the problem didn't go away. I went to AutoZone to do a better battery check, and they also read bad battery from under the hood, but good battery when connected directly to the battery terminals in the trunk. They tested the alternator and everything else, whatever they usually do - all good.
Today I checked for a parasitic current draw: connected a multimeter set to 10A in series with the positive post and waited ~40 minutes. Reads 2.9A with dome lights on, 23mA an hour later. 23mA is expected, from what I gathered here.
I don't know what else to check... this was my only suspect.

Possibly related: about a year ago I noticed if I plug in a phone to a charger in the front panel my radio signal goes away - all but one strong station. Suspected a ground issue, but never checked.
The only work done before the problem appeared was struts and shocks, no wires were on the way when I did it.

Any advice?
Thanks!

 

Welcome to the site, check this thread

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...cations-56504/

 

Thank you!!
Sorry for a dumb question, but what am I supposed to do with the list of ground locations? I guess it should help me check that every circuit is properly grounded and may lead to a solution for the battery drain, but I am unsure how exactly one checks it.

(I'm not very familiar with DIY car maintenance, it is generally scary for me and I go slowly, learning about the issue from detailed tutorials before giving it up to the car shop techs)

 

Eyes and fingers work well. Bolts get loose wires get corroded.

But, I would also suspect a vacuum leak from the EVAP purge valve under the hood.

 

I see. I'll get on it then, thank you!
About the valve: is this article any good? Purge valve, how it works, symptoms, problems, testing
I have a smell in the garage for the past couple months, a mix of vinegar, fuel and fresh paint, but I can't pinpoint it to anything in particular, could it be related?

Also, i I connect a code reader while starting the car (to get the check engine light come on), will I get a reading?

 

That is sounding like the canister purge valve, the one near the gas tank. It can cause all of those things, usually a check engine light and a code. If there are stored codes they will be available to the reader. Not all codes will cause the CEL.;

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-44780/

 

I have had many cars come into the shop with this, and the best thing I can advise is to read fuel pressure. When the vehicle is shut off you don't want to see the fuel pressure fall off faster drop to 0. It will usually drop 5 - 10 lbs but should hold after that. If it doesn't hold that will take a lot of cranking until fuel pressure comes up. Worth checking. If it does drop it usually is the fuel pump, but I have seen an injector leak too and cause the same problem.

 

You were right, it was a leak in the gas line.

I checked the ground locations and other electrical... but nothing. I noticed that if I turn the key half way and let it sit for a minute or even less, then start the car, it starts just fine. I also had this on and off gas smell in the garage I couldn't pinpoint, but I had it for months and it never got stronger. Then my out of town guests borrowed the car and called to inform me I have gas leaking from around rear left wheel. Great timing,
I could hear hissing from under the fuel\brake lines clip. Turns out, part of the gas line has rusted out. Techs noticed another segment, closer to the tank, may also go soon, but for now I got away with replacing just that one part. I'll pick a date to replace the whole line before it fails though.
Sure enough, now the car starts just fine and the smell is gone. Thank you all, it was good to learn a few new skills.

 

Glad you found it. plastic everywhere! on all cars anymore.

 

Our fuel lines are steel. GM was to have released a new fuel line set, to address this rust issue check with your GM dealer, parts department