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Low Power Disaster

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Old 08-10-2024 | 06:39 PM
  #21  
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From: Davison MI
Originally Posted by Wheatgerm

Yes I have an SS but no problems on that one, we are dealing with an HHR 2 LT, 2.4 Auto and battery voltage is good, I removed the fuse top with relays etc. and all looked good under it, cleaned pins and receivers with a spray used in Brake work, evaporates quickly, no signs of any problems like bent pins etc though, did it anyway.. Happy to see the example in the Youtube Video made snapping noises as mine did too. No change in anything though..

I uploaded the picture that I can see showing battery voltage and I think the short video uploaded with a quick show of the dash gauges and lights doing their show and tell...

I appreciate the help and most of the reading I did very early this morning led me to think that would be the cure but this one will be as they say, "One for the books" if ever found by me or anyone on this end if it goes that far..
You are not using your meter correctly.
Old 08-10-2024 | 10:46 PM
  #22  
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From: Texas
Yesterday the doors were open for much of the work being done, the car started today and ran a while placing a 14.2 charge,for a while and then was shut off, that was the surface charge after that with the hatch open and 3 courtesy lings illuminated... Thanks for your comments.
Old 08-10-2024 | 10:52 PM
  #23  
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It is also a voltmeter, note the higher voltage scale a 12 volt battery would never have unless the engine was running and yes it is old but still works.. Thanks for your comments.
Old 08-10-2024 | 11:08 PM
  #24  
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No, I also have a 2010 SS that is no longer having overboost problems it had back during the time of the missed reply back, already apologized for, sorry for the confusion or misinformation...
Old 08-11-2024 | 11:49 AM
  #25  
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Couldn’t watch the whole thing. 7-1/2 minutes just to get the thing off. Don’t know if he disconnected the battery but he should have.

Not wrong with all the cleaning, but prolly unnecessary. Not sure about the dielectric grease; it ain’t a boat. Sometimes Often, just pulling and replacing that type of connector “fixes” a corroded connection.

Originally Posted by donbrew
I don't know why people want to argue about "PAST THE FEAR OF STRIPPING", the best way is to remove the 4 bolts, separate the halves, look at the hundred connections that need to go home then reassemble the box tightening the 4 bolts until ALL of those connections click into place. The problem is that the 4 bolts don't distribute evenly.
This guy is little off the mark but the procedure is close
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8sd...1s&pp=gAQBiAQB
Old 08-11-2024 | 04:38 PM
  #26  
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Oviously did not see the disclaimer.
This guy is little off the mark but the procedure is close
Old 10-11-2024 | 10:10 AM
  #27  
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Update to everyone following this Thread after giving a bigThank You to all that replied, helped, showed interest etc."THANK YOU" Gentlemen..

Now as mentioned during the replies and questions the problem was already listed so what I found and repaired as I finally started exploring around under the hood for broken wires in the harness, was the engine control module has 2 plugs into it, the bottom one of the pair had been taken out for the transaxle replacement and simply not put in without bending some of the pins on the module itself. After 3 tries at getting all the bent pins aligned correctly to fit back into the female side of the connection my problem was solved.. The bent pins leaned toward the other pins in the next row in at least 2 different locations, both on the outer ends of the pin rows, seemingly touching and able to make a connection to other opposing pins while not making a connection to where they should have..

I was very careful not to break any of the pins and finally got them lined up well enough to enter the receivers they were intended to connect to..

After that I had the famous high idle problems with the Throttle Body but cured that by putting the original part back on and while I was at it returned the other part thrown at it too, that being the gas pedal assembly and once that was done the HHR was back to its usual self.

HOW it ran all of those months like it was without this problem is a miracle of some sorts though it did have some intermittent problems as told by my son in law "now'.. Bottom line is it is fixed, I drove it many miles, got it inspected as is the law here annually and renewed the registration which includes an Emissions Test so all systems are functioning..

Observations made were the Bosch throttle body purchase new was not already dialed in or I would not have had the problems I did, High Idle and all many others have described here when "Re Learning" process was undertaken to dial in their replacement part or one that had been cleaned and had the problem afterwards..

A side note to all of this is yes I do have a 2010 HHR SS and mentioned I had purchase 2 batteries in the past for them, turns out my estimate of age was off but the one in the SS died during this adventure and was replaced and the side of the battery had a date of 2017 on it. I also took advantage of the new battery by placing it in the 2008 2LT with the problems to see if it fixed anything but it made no difference and believe it or not the battery in that 2008 HHR 2LT is still working fine in its home vehicle despite its age.. [Duracell Battery ]

In conclusion "Man Made" problems are hard to find but after this adventure I'd recommend starting anywhere you know something had to be disconnected or is even in the area of a repair made previous to the problem..

One question, are any members thinking of upgrading their HHR's to later model drive trains offered on for example Cadillac's with the 2.0 Turbo configuration or for that matter any drive trains other than factory HHR/Cobalt etc.? I know one person put a V/8 in his, big job but I was thinking of maybe anything, possible even a V /6 dropped into one of these HHR's we all know we bought because they looked like the old cars we all loved and never forgot.

Though the Old Car look was the hook that got me, I actually was saving money for a "Ford 49" whenever it came out but when it was clear after years waiting, that wasn't going to happen and I couldn't convince myself to buy a PT Cruiser I went shopping for a Super Sport HHR and had I been successful at finding one my wife could drive [Only Stick Shifts were around then] I ended up buying the 2 LT with a 2.4 instead and waiting for an SS automatic to turn up sooner or later, which became "Later" but I took it as, "A time for Everything and Everything in its time" end of post...

Some adventure history files attached..

Attached Files
File Type: pdf
202410090503111943.pdf (466.6 KB, 5 views)
Old 10-12-2024 | 07:24 AM
  #28  
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Glad you got your HHR back up and running! Enjoy the ride!
Old 10-12-2024 | 12:56 PM
  #29  
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Oldblue
Glad you got your HHR back up and running! Enjoy the ride!
Thank you, I always have done so [enjoyed the ride] but only when they were running right and help was always there from this Club so I can't thank you and all the others for always being there to offer advice and instructions, pictures and all.. You take care Old Blue.


This not the actual Control Module but the area of trouble was on the Gray side and top and bottom pins at the very end being bent and touching the pins across from them on one row only..

Old 10-12-2024 | 01:03 PM
  #30  
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DonBrew, I'm looking for a replacement "Red Cap" that goes over the positive connection as shown in the video here, nearest the front of the car, it was lost when they did the Transaxle, and I only picked you due to the still picture posted here for the Video and my lack of the actual name, once again pictures are valuable..I have searched Chevrolet dealers on line, Amazon.com and Rock Auto and would be happy with a used one if anyone else that might read this has one..

Regards and Thanks for your help over the years as well..


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