Misfire / traction control light???
#61
Still having issues
Ok got the new cam in installed it got everything back to gether and I get fule spark and not start. About to do a compression test. Anything else in should check? So compression test results # 148lbs #2 90lbs #3 90lbs #4 150 lbs. It's too dark to continue working on it tonight. But besides a leak down test is there anything else I should be look for? Am I off on the timing a tooth? Any help would be appreciated.
#63
Leak down test 2.4l
Ok I'm about to do a leak down test on my 2.4l . Now just so I'm doing this right turn the engine by hand over to top dead center. That should have #1 up and ready to test. Correct? Then turn engine over till # 3 has gone down then back up then #3 is ready to test? Then so on. Am I thinking this out correctly or not???
#64
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-engine-56053/
If you have a cheap tool, you may need to modify it as in post #6.
If you have a cheap tool, you may need to modify it as in post #6.
#68
Results of leak down test
Well the results of the leak down test were #1 30% #2 45% #3 40% #4 30%. I put some oil into the cylinders to see if the rings were just stuck or washed out as my dad called it. I did spray alot of parts cleaner in each cylinder to clean the carbon buildup off. And I had no noticeable scoring or excessive wear on the cylinder walls. But it being winter in Wyoming I haven't been able to do anything else to the car in the past three days. And looks like if I dont get checking anything tomorrow morning I might not get to work on the car for the next couple days. Anyone have any suggestions?
So the leakage sounds like it is coming from the crank case. Forgot to put that in above.
So the leakage sounds like it is coming from the crank case. Forgot to put that in above.
#69
I don't know what to make of that. With that much leakage, you shouldn't have such good compression on 1 and 4. I would suggest that you're not at true TDC, but that would cause leakage through valves, not past the rings.
#70
From the article linked to above:
No engine will have perfect sealing with 0 percent loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run OK, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder.