It's actually my mom's car, but it's the same old story..."Power steering" on panel display and no electric assist. I read the excellent write up in here on how to replace the motor, but I have a few more questions.

I checked both fuses and they're fine. I pulled the motor and bench tested it with 12 volts and it spins both directions fine. I reinstalled it and nothing.

So could it still be the motor?

I'm trying to fix this for my mom as neither of us has $$$ for dealers. I'm having back surgery in a few weeks and she's on Social Security.

I will say replacing the motor is easy (thanks to the write up in here), but I don't want to replace it if it's not the problem.

The failure mode was two short failures a month or so apart and then it just quit.

If I replaced the motor and controller could I just take it to the dealer for calibration?
Thx.

Tim

 

My mom's 06 HHR's power steering went out. I went through the EPS motor replacement thread and thought all was answered (great thread BTW)

The power steering is just dead. two warning signs over the last months and then it just quit.

I checked all the fuses, went to autozone and read the codes and nothing for EPS. their reader only covered Engine and drivetrain.

I pulled the EPS motor and bench tested it and the motor works fine so I'm afraid to just buy a new motor when it appears this one is fine.

I can get the entire EPS system/module and replace it. I believe I would still have to take it to the dealer for calibration, but that would save a ton of money.

Right now I found a used unit for $70 out of a Cobalt so I was thinking about buying it. I can swap the motor and see what happens and if it still doesn't work I can swap the entire unit.

What are the chances of the problem being a peripheral input such as torque sensor or ?

I do have steering wheel controls, but only DIC and cruise control. They work normally.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Tim

 

Well, I found what looks to be the identical unit at a junkyard out of a 03 Ion. I put replaced the entire steering unit and now the car won't start. The fuel gauge also reads empty and I just put gas in so I know it had around a half tank when I got home.

I had the battery disconnected for about an hour, does that cause a security system issue?
Could it be that the codes don't match in the EPS units the security system so it won't let it start?

Tomorrow I'll put the od unit back in and see if it starts...

HELP

TIA

Tim

 

Did you use the original key cyl from the hhr. I'm thinking the theft lock has been activated.

 

Yeah, didn't change the ignition or steering wheel, just the EPS unit...the motor and assist gearbox. The security light is on, but steady. The book states to just turn the ignition key on to shut off the security sys. It also says the light will be blinking if activated...would leaving the battery disconnected cause any problems?

Tim

 

I think you're right. I locked it to cycle it. Have to do it with the interior door lock and then close the door. When I unlocked the door the alarm went (normal) I out the key in the ignition and turned it and instead of disarming it just went into alarm. Horn blasting and lights on.

Any ideas on resetting the security system. Neither of the key fobs have worked since it ran out of warranty

Tim

 

Mine is freaking out. If I urn the key to ON the alarm goes off and after about 8 minutes relays are clicking and the Battery Save mode is displayed (battery is on charger the entire time).

I pulled the 60 amp fuse by the battery before I hurt something and I still get lights blinking inside. I'll try it during the day when I can see better and when the autolights (even though I turned them off and pulled the horn realy) don't interfere.

The fuel pump relay was clicking so I pulled it out and the throttle butterfly was moving back and forth...strange.

 

I tried the 30 minute reset https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/how-reset-security-system-relearn-key-29397/, but
mine freaks out. I'm charging the battery over night with the main 60 amp fuse pulled.

 

Ugh, this sounds like a deal where you're going to have to consider gettng it to your dealer or a technician armed with a Tech II and the knowledge to interrogate the BCM, PCM, and other system modules.

It sounds like you may have a communication issue/programming corruption problem causing the security system to trigger its lockdown/anti-tamper mode.

 

What if I put the old unit back in?