Mystery Code: B2AAA
#13
Update
I did some testing of components this morning.
Checked the cam actuator solenoids and they had 13.1 ohms of resistance. I also used jumper wires to activate the solenoid. I could hear and see both of them working.
Removed both cam position sensors and they had 1200 ohms of resistance. I cold also get the sensors to create up to .25 Volts AC by waving a metal object past the sensor.
The camshaft position sensors were covered in an dark brown oily sludge but I don't think that would affect their accuracy.
I went ahead an ordered a couple new camshaft position sensors anyway.
Does anyone know how to check the base engine timing? is there a way to manually check the timing with a timing light? When I had the codes checked last week, I now remember that two codes were found. P0016 and P0017. P0017 refers to exhaust cam timing.
Checked the cam actuator solenoids and they had 13.1 ohms of resistance. I also used jumper wires to activate the solenoid. I could hear and see both of them working.
Removed both cam position sensors and they had 1200 ohms of resistance. I cold also get the sensors to create up to .25 Volts AC by waving a metal object past the sensor.
The camshaft position sensors were covered in an dark brown oily sludge but I don't think that would affect their accuracy.
I went ahead an ordered a couple new camshaft position sensors anyway.
Does anyone know how to check the base engine timing? is there a way to manually check the timing with a timing light? When I had the codes checked last week, I now remember that two codes were found. P0016 and P0017. P0017 refers to exhaust cam timing.
Last edited by ChevyMgr; 03-12-2012 at 01:01 PM. Reason: resized pics that were way past site guidelines 640X480 MAX!
#14
If those don't work:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...3231&page=3#26
Also what about this sludge you speak of?
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...3231&page=3#26
Also what about this sludge you speak of?
#16
Thanks 843de and ChevyMgr for the helpful information!
If the cam sensors don't fix it, I'll pull the valve cover and check the camshaft reluctors. If the reluctors haven't shifted, it appears that I will have to tackle the project of pulling the lower timing cover to check the timing mark on the lower chain sprocket.
As to the sludge, it is brown and is not truly sludge but really dark and thick oil. I've used synthetic oil since 15,000 miles and the car does 90% highway travel. MPG hasn't changed much and is around 28.
If the cam sensors don't fix it, I'll pull the valve cover and check the camshaft reluctors. If the reluctors haven't shifted, it appears that I will have to tackle the project of pulling the lower timing cover to check the timing mark on the lower chain sprocket.
As to the sludge, it is brown and is not truly sludge but really dark and thick oil. I've used synthetic oil since 15,000 miles and the car does 90% highway travel. MPG hasn't changed much and is around 28.
#18
Update
I will have to replace both camshafts.
I pulled the valve cover today and the reluctors have shifted. Exhaust side reluctor rotated .074 inches and the intake side reluctor rotated .094 inches from the gasket surface.
I pulled the valve cover today and the reluctors have shifted. Exhaust side reluctor rotated .074 inches and the intake side reluctor rotated .094 inches from the gasket surface.
#19
Shoot, haven't heard of that happening for a long time, sorry to hear that it isn't a "simple and cheap" fix, but you've nailed down the problem.
Keep us posted, and take some pics of the camshaft job if you can, might help somebody else out in the future.
Keep us posted, and take some pics of the camshaft job if you can, might help somebody else out in the future.
#20
I took pictures. I just have to get them on the computer. I will call the dealer in the morning for a price on camshafts and the J 44217 cam chain holder tool. I am tempted to heat the reluctor, tap it back into position and weld it to the shaft. Remember that the cams only travel half as fast as the crankshaft.