New Brake Issues
01-27-2010 | 05:28 PM
#13
Senior Member
Joined: 08-29-2009
Posts: 1,813
From: Long Island, NY
Ask your Uncle if he sprayed down the new rotors with brake cleaner. Some companies (not all) spray a protective coating on the rotors/drums (sometimes even oil) so they do not rust in the box. If the coating is not removed fully you end up with brake "glazing" which would cause the squeeling, then after it's heated up enough and baked onto the rotor and pads you could end up with that low brake power pedal feeling. The only way to get rid of it (if that's the issue) is to clean up the rotors/pads/drums/shoes is with emory cloth.
Do you know the country of origin the rotors/drums were made in? Also if the pads were inexpensive you may have had to break them in with easy stopping for the first couple hundred miles of use-otherwise if they heated up too quickly after being just put on-you'll end up with the squeeling almost right away.
Do you know the country of origin the rotors/drums were made in? Also if the pads were inexpensive you may have had to break them in with easy stopping for the first couple hundred miles of use-otherwise if they heated up too quickly after being just put on-you'll end up with the squeeling almost right away.
01-27-2010 | 05:30 PM
#14
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 25,339
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I have a mechanic next door to me that says you should not use C-clamps to compress the rotors on the newer vehicles with anti-lock brakes. His theory is the back flow through the valve and pump mechanisms is bad for the unit.
He says it is better to crack a bleeder and when finished with the job to bleed the brakes.
Just putting this out there for discussion.
He says it is better to crack a bleeder and when finished with the job to bleed the brakes.
Just putting this out there for discussion.
My suspicion is that he used the C-clamp, but opened the bleeder valve, thus admitting air into the system. Unless your intention is to replace brake fluid, you never "need" to open a bleeder valve!!!!!!!!!!!
01-27-2010 | 05:49 PM
#15
Senior Member
Joined: 12-24-2008
Posts: 717
From: N/A
I don't know about the one-way valve or not, but I believe his concern is the dirty brake fluid in the caliper piston cavity getting back up into the brake module and unnecessarily contaminating it. Thus causing it to fail earlier.
01-29-2010 | 04:32 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-2009
Posts: 5
From: Atlanta
Ask your Uncle if he sprayed down the new rotors with brake cleaner. Some companies (not all) spray a protective coating on the rotors/drums (sometimes even oil) so they do not rust in the box. If the coating is not removed fully you end up with brake "glazing" which would cause the squeeling, then after it's heated up enough and baked onto the rotor and pads you could end up with that low brake power pedal feeling. The only way to get rid of it (if that's the issue) is to clean up the rotors/pads/drums/shoes is with emory cloth.
Do you know the country of origin the rotors/drums were made in? Also if the pads were inexpensive you may have had to break them in with easy stopping for the first couple hundred miles of use-otherwise if they heated up too quickly after being just put on-you'll end up with the squeeling almost right away.
Do you know the country of origin the rotors/drums were made in? Also if the pads were inexpensive you may have had to break them in with easy stopping for the first couple hundred miles of use-otherwise if they heated up too quickly after being just put on-you'll end up with the squeeling almost right away.
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