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New knocking from front driver's side wheel when braking

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Old 09-20-2023 | 06:29 AM
  #21  
Oldblue's Avatar
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If you’re gonna press new bushings in then I suggest getting a pair or Moog K201285 problem solvers



Old 09-26-2023 | 04:00 PM
  #22  
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I wanted to get this done before my roadtrip, so I just got a bushing from autozone. That knocking went away. Still not 100% clear of sounds from the suspension, but it's much better. I'll do the other side this weekend. The boot on the ball joint was showing some cracks, so I'm expecting that I'll need to replace those before too much longer. When that happens I'll just replace the entire LCA on both sides.
Old 09-26-2023 | 04:56 PM
  #23  
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Actually I think it’s better to get another bushing and two ball joints.
Old 09-26-2023 | 05:22 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Actually I think it’s better to get another bushing and two ball joints.
I'm good with that too. Probably a stupid question, but. The ball joint wasn't bolted on. It looked more like these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=10401&jsn=930
Not saying it's that brand LCA, just that the ball joints are mounted that way. How do you take those off? Are those pins pressed in?
Old 09-26-2023 | 08:41 PM
  #25  
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They are rivets. Grind the head then drill.
Old 09-28-2023 | 02:28 PM
  #26  
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If ur doing Moog Problem Solver bushings, assess the ball joints then. They're usually fine. If ur using generic bushings and it needs ball joints too, it may be worth considering replacing the entire LCA assemblies. But get good ones. But good luck figuring out which those are. Definitely not the steel ones.

Kudos for getting the bushing out. You have access to a press?

Don't worry about the caliper grease job. No grease got in through the bleeders unless you opened them, and you don't open grease fittings, do you? This issue does have me kinda curious about what would happen if some grease got inside the brake fluid circuit, tho.
Old 09-28-2023 | 02:37 PM
  #27  
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Good information about getting the rivets out
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