no crank/ignition switch voltage
#1
no crank/ignition switch voltage
this started as an intermittent problem. since i can't get my mechanic/nephew to even look at this car i'm trying to figure it out on my own. i've checked the battery, fuses, relays and grounds. i took the power probe to the ignition switch. in the run position i'm getting 5v on the white/black wire. with the switch in the on position i get nothing on the white wire, but if i unplug it i'm getting .3v as a static reading. i'm inclined to think it is the switch but i hate to spend the money and that not be it.
any advice?
any advice?
#2
The ignition switch does not work the way you think it does. Your readings may be just fine.
What year/model
Recalls done?
What exactly is the problem?
The usual problem is the connections between the top and bottom of the under hood fuse box.
What year/model
Recalls done?
What exactly is the problem?
The usual problem is the connections between the top and bottom of the under hood fuse box.
#7
This guy at least shows how to get to the problem area. Don't listen to his diagnostics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8sdq0EaNyg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8sdq0EaNyg
thx!
#8
The ignition switch only has one wire, a resistor in the switch controls which signal is sent, run or crank. The BCM then send signals to the various relays and systems.
The choices are relays, fuses, wires or connectors. Intermittent makes it really difficult. If many systems are involved I.E.: you have several engine codes it is usually the fuse box is misbehaving.
If there are no codes you should look at the battery the starter and the alternator.
The choices are relays, fuses, wires or connectors. Intermittent makes it really difficult. If many systems are involved I.E.: you have several engine codes it is usually the fuse box is misbehaving.
If there are no codes you should look at the battery the starter and the alternator.
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