Hi all,

I am helping my younger brother with his car issue. He has a 2008 HHR (auto trans) that will not start or crank. He lives about two and a half hours away from me. Yesterday I drove to his place to try and help him fix the car.

First thing we did was take the battery to get tested. After testing good, we got a full charge on it and headed back to the car. I verified that the battery connection wires were clean and corrosion free. I inspected the battery ground terminal (chassis side) and ensured it was also good to go. I checked the 30A crank fuse(#5) in the fuse box and made sure it was good. I also ohmed out the crank relay (#34) and tried swapping it with another relay of the same part number. I also inspected the two posts to the left of the engine fuse box and made sure they were tight and secure. After doing all this, it still did not start or crank.

I went ahead and replaced the starter. I ensured all connections were nice and tight. I cleaned the terminal heads with a wire brush to clean off any corrosion. The vehicle still did not start. I replaced the ignition switch too and it also did not fix the problem. I attempted to start the car in neutral to see if changing the position of the park/neutral position switch would help any.

When the key is turned to start the vehicle, the headlights go out (or very dim, it was the day time). There is no clicking noise made. Any idea or input would be greatly appreciated. All the lights in the dash go out while the key is held to the start position. I am planning to head back again this upcoming weekend to continue troubleshooting. I have attached a wiring schematic of the starter system in case it helps any.

 

Relay? Ground wire(s)? Any CEL that was forgotten? The main power to the fuse box?

I don't understand replacing the switch, has the recall been done? If not, that would have been free.


https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/atta...rank-image.jpg

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...cations-56504/

 

As I stated, I did check the relay and ground wires. I do not have any OBD codes. I tried renting a scanner but no place would lend one out. I order one which will get here Wednesday that'll use to get any codes. I did check power going to the fuse box, it was good.

I'm not too familiar with HHRs as I do not own one. However, it was my understanding that the ignition lock switch (the one you stick your key in) was recalled. That switch was indeed replaced. The switch I replaced is connected to the back of the ignition lock switch. It is the ignition switch you see in the wiring diagram on the left. If faulty, it could have been sending an incorrect signal to the "OFF/RUN/CRANK VOLTAGE" input of the BCM.

 

The entire key mechanism was included in the recall.

Look at the connection to the fuse box that is shown in the link.

If you are not familiar with the HHR, how do you know you checked all of the grounds? That's why I included that link.

The question was: was the CEL on, but you didn't mention it?
There is a specific code for a bad ign switch/connection (p1682, I think).

There are a couple of fuses involved with the crank and start circuits.

The top and bottom of the fuse box have been known to dissociate and make for electrical problems.

The statement about the headlights leads toward a short in the hot side. Has anybody messed with the wiring in anyway just prior to this problem? People sometimes splice into wires and inadvertently cause a short whe a seemingly unrelated switch is activated. Or, do something to activate the anti-theft system.

 

My apologies, I thought you were referring to the ground on the starter/battery. I will have to check all the grounds on that list when I go back. I did specifically check the terminal post you've shown in the illustration.

There is no check engine light on.

What other fuses can I check besides the crank 30A fuse?

I will investigate the fuse box when I go back. I did just see the TSB thread and came across #07-08-45-003a which mentions a terminal likely to break under the fuse box.

 

Here is another link:

as to fuses look at the fuse locator on the box lids (2 fuse boxes) anything marked "crank" etc.

 

Thanks for the video link, it's very helpful. I will definitely investigate the fuse box when I go work on the car this Friday. Thanks again.

 

FYI.
The starter has a main battery + feed that is hot at all times. The crank relay sends power to the starter solenoid to engage the starter when the key is turned to the start position. Check these 1st to ascertain if that is occurring.

Just a note: That all the time hot feed to the starter is also connected to the generator(alternator).
If I recall correctly, there are some fusible type links somewhere in that circuit by the starter. Check both the starter and generator to be sure they have power.

 

So, that suspected dead short might be the alternator?

 

My first thought on the initial post was a dead short somewhere (lights going off and headlights dimming) - FMG might be onto something.