No Start: no steering wheel lock, key turns & pulls out, can shift gears, no turnover
#12
Still waiting on neighbor to get home to charge..
So with the key 'on', after the first few seconds, here are all the lights that stay on. None of them are blinking, they stay solid and do not go off, even after 15+ min:
•*Security
•*Brake
•*Engine
•*Airbag
•*ABS
•*T/C
Checked fuses/relays, wires/grounds, still found nothing suspect. Frustrated.
So with the key 'on', after the first few seconds, here are all the lights that stay on. None of them are blinking, they stay solid and do not go off, even after 15+ min:
•*Security
•*Brake
•*Engine
•*Airbag
•*ABS
•*T/C
Checked fuses/relays, wires/grounds, still found nothing suspect. Frustrated.
#13
Until you get the battery charged, there is nothing you can do to test it further.
Once charged the voltage should read 12.7 - 12.8 as per firemangeorge. - and that is with the engine OFF. With the engine RUNNING, the voltage should read ~14.6 as per Oldblue - if it is less than 14V then you likely have a charging/alternator issue.
At 12 volts, testing it further is just wasting your time.
Once charged the voltage should read 12.7 - 12.8 as per firemangeorge. - and that is with the engine OFF. With the engine RUNNING, the voltage should read ~14.6 as per Oldblue - if it is less than 14V then you likely have a charging/alternator issue.
At 12 volts, testing it further is just wasting your time.
#15
No luck after a charge, still same symptoms. I checked wires and fuses thoroughly, couldn't find any obvious culprits. Towed the HHR off at the nearest dealer this morning, their scan tool said there were several 'failure to communicate' codes, waiting anxiously to hear back from them about the cause and cost. Thanks again guys, love this crowd
#18
If you did nothing under the hood then the ignition switch wires or you shorted something and burned a fuse.
Nothing about finding electrical faults is cheap; they are liable to charge an hour labor to replace a fuse, and another hour to figure out which one.
I am kind of thinking maybe the key cylinder came loose, since that's where the wheel lock is.
Nothing about finding electrical faults is cheap; they are liable to charge an hour labor to replace a fuse, and another hour to figure out which one.
I am kind of thinking maybe the key cylinder came loose, since that's where the wheel lock is.
#19
I'd be fine if they just charge 1-2 hrs of labor.. After reading about BCM/ECM replacement jobs last night, I was worried I might be getting into the $1,xxx range for this problem. If it comes out around 2-3 hundred, I'll just consider it a pricy lesson on my car's electronics/security system.
Wish I had a lil better understanding of that whole system so I could have figured it out myself and saved some $$$. Guess we all have to pay someone else for the things we can't do ourselves sometimes..
Wish I had a lil better understanding of that whole system so I could have figured it out myself and saved some $$$. Guess we all have to pay someone else for the things we can't do ourselves sometimes..
#20
I'd be fine if they just charge 1-2 hrs of labor.. After reading about BCM/ECM replacement jobs last night, I was worried I might be getting into the $1,xxx range for this problem. If it comes out around 2-3 hundred, I'll just consider it a pricy lesson on my car's electronics/security system.
Wish I had a lil better understanding of that whole system so I could have figured it out myself and saved some $$$. Guess we all have to pay someone else for the things we can't do ourselves sometimes..
Wish I had a lil better understanding of that whole system so I could have figured it out myself and saved some $$$. Guess we all have to pay someone else for the things we can't do ourselves sometimes..
You bet ..me too.
Give me back my 53 Chevy Coupe with a 235 in line 6 and a Stick shift or my 56 Chevy 2dr. hardtop with a small block V-8 ...
Oh well ... Life goes on and The clock just keeps on a tickin.
SF