06burntorange

I have only owned this 2006 HHR for a few months now. I didnt notice it much at first, but occasionally it would take longer than normal to start.
This means normal is turn the key and its starts up pretty much right away. Longer than this is maybe 3 or 4 seconds in reality, but it feels like a long time.

I recently went out on a road trip, where I got a check engine light. I went to autozone and got a camshaft position error code. They gave me a camshaft position sensor, and not the solenoids. I replaced the sensor. Engine light went away. But then came back again after some miles.

I began researching and found this forum. Found out about the solenoids, went to Chevy dealer, bought the parts installed, and engine light went away for good.

So now I am at altitude, in Colorado on this road trip. I noticed the long starts more now. I decided to change the spark plugs. No change in starting.
I thought that when I started with the A/C on, the long starts were occurring more often. Then I tried making sure the A/C was off before I started the car, and the starts seemed to be back to normal. But there is still a randomness to this.

My thought was that the A/C was causing more of a load on engine at start. Possible cause - failing A/C compressor?

But then I read deeper into this forums. Now I am thinking that perhaps this is a fuel delivery issue? Such as fuel pump/filter beginning to fail?

I even went back to Autozone to have the battery checked and the voltage appeared strong.

Any ideas/suggestions?

I will attempt to listen at the gas cap and hopefully catch the sound on one of the bad starts. (in order to get an indication about fuel pump.

Is there a how-to on checking the fuel pressure?
Do you think injector cleaner would help?

Thanks

06burntorange

Is there any adjustments you need to do for altitude? Could the altitude and the thinner air be causing the bad starts? Or will the computer adjust for this?

Any suggestions? Or do I need to wait until failure occurs?

Cheers

prod

I am getting this too after having the fuel injectors out, so likely a fuelling issue in my case. Maybe yours too. You might want to get the injectors flow tested and the fuel pressure checked.

843de

The MAP sensor helps the ECM compensate for altitude and atmospheric density, so fuel injected vehicles are not as susceptible to "altitude sickness" like cars with carburetors were. But they are affected to a degree, and it will show up any weaknesses that are not evident at sea level.

You may want to have the injectors serviced(or give it a shot of injector cleaner)if you have high miles on your HHR, checking the fuel pressure is also a good idea, but unless you're in possession of the appropriate equipment...have it checked by a tech. The factory calls for 50-60 psi of fuel pressure, if its lower than that, it may be a failing pump.(unfortunately, that's a job that involves dropping the tank, the fuel filter is integral with the pump)

The A/C compressor clutch will not be engaged at engine startup, there is a 2-3 second delay after the engine starts before the clutch engages to ensure there is no compressor drag on starting.

Snoopy

Agree with 843.......Fuel pressure. Sounds like the classic and basic symptoms.

But as suggested, I would NOT continue to throw money into parts replacement. Take it to a REPUTABLE shop or dealer and have it done professionally.

Once the source of the problem is identified, i.e., fuel pump, injector, fuel rail, etc. you can make a financial judgment from there.

06burntorange

Thank you for the replies. And thank you 843 for that bit of info about the a/c compressor, that really helps alot.
The mileage is about 112k on this one. I am assuming that might be enough miles for a pump change. But I will do as you all have suggested and get the fuel pressure checked. I like to DIY, but the dropping the tank seems like a big job.

06burntorange

well I did get the fuel pressure checked. They said 61psi at idle and at 2500rpm so the fuel delivery appears to be fine. (as far as I know)

I figured out that the starting is better if I pause at the "on" position for 1 second before I push the ignition to "start" position and let it go.

Even so there are still some occasions when it does not start first time or right away.

I hope this is not normal because I have had junker cars that start more reliably than this.

any other suggestions?
There are no failure codes, and I dont know what else to check.

Could a loose gas cap cause this?

donbrew

You would get codes for gas cap and purge system, so I would stay with the fuel supply system, especially with the "on for a few seconds" helps.

When you replaced the plugs you didn't try to set the gap did you? I recently found out that that is a sure way to throw $28 away! They come gapped and are not easy to re gap anymore, I know it's hard to trust them for us geezers, but it is marked on the box. Many will argue, but my $28 is my evidence, check them maybe but don't try to change it.

06burntorange

I did NOT gap the plugs. I knew that they already come gapped to the right size. I put one set of new plugs in when I bought the vehicle. Then after I changed the oil, and replaced the camshaft solenoid, and put some mile on her, I changed the plugs again just to see if anything along the way had spoiled them.
The new set of plugs did not seem to make a difference.

One other thing I might mention, my remote start does not work. Could that be related?

Otherwise, I guess it might still be fuel delivery. Unless there could be something causing weak spark.

IgottaWoody

Just a note....AC along with all other accessories will not turn on until AfTER the start circuit has completed..this ensures all voltage is available for starting