About a month ago, I noticed the car idling rough but it never died.

It's been really bad today, jerking the car a lot. More than it ever has.

Usually it went away after I left where I was parked but today it happened the entire drive (at least when I was stopped at a light or something) and I think I also noticed it a bit while we were driving.

The check engine light didn't go on until recently, but I had noticed it had trouble idling for some time now.

With the info I have given above, can anyone identify the actual problem? As I mentioned in the title, the code is P0010. And I am using a innova 3120 canOBD 2&1 tool.

 

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/list-diagnostic-trouble-codes-2008-2010-hhr-14259/
Looks like it's the actuator solenoid.

 

Yeah my scan tool already told me the code and the description (which is all that thread you linked provided me)

I was wondering what the actual problem was based on the cars symptoms.

 

very nice how-to here..I assume if you are mechanically inclined....this is about as easy as changing the air filter

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...osition+sensor

 

Thanks, seems easy enough.

Do you think that will solve my problem though?

 

if those are the only codes that were pulled, I'd say yes....if there were other codes with them, who knows.

 

and if you go to https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...sensor&page=21 it details the part numbers for the actuator SOLENOIDS (not "sensor" - but "SOLENOID" - too many make that mistake at the parts store)

 

Ok I hate to keep asking, but are you guys 100% positive on this? I bought a part for my previous car and it turned out to not even fix the problem and that's the part it said needed to be replaced...

And if so, would I need to get BOTH of the parts? Or would it possibly just be ONE of them that is bad?

The car is REALLY having trouble idling now. And often jerks the car while in drive.

Only seems to happen when it's started after the engine has warmed up.

It doesn't do it if I start it when it's cold out, or even after the car has warmed up if I've started it while it's cold.

Would also love the cheapest place to buy them if possible.

 

Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes. It will take care of your problem.

I was unconvinced as well, so I waited for the part to totally die before replacing the solenoid. The coil or internal electrical connections failed on my solenoid. If your failure mode is the same get out an Ohm meter and go to work.

Whopper's thread details everything, yes it is a bit long as all the good threads become.

 

Actually you might be best to just take it to a dealer, and let them sort it out for you.

You don't seem to read any of the info given to you here - if you read the referenced threads, you would know that NO, you don't need to replace BOTH, as only the one solenoid has generated a code.

I hesitate to mention it is the Intake Solenoid that needs replacement, as I expect you will then question if I am sure it isn't the Exhaust Solenoid.